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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Dear Kirk<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Have you tried putting a layer (about 15-20mm) of char from a previous burn before putting in the fuel? This will absorb the heat that was heating the bottom plate as the pyrolysis front arrives.
The effect is to prevent the over-rapid pyrolysation of the last of the fuel, thus avoiding the excess production of gases.
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Regards<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Crispin<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">++++++</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Hello Kirk,<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">I don't have a problem with smoky transitions, but would like to offer another solution. In my 9" TLUD with a 24" high fuel container I use an Aluminum plate that can be loaded with pieces of charcoal or wood. The pieces nearest the flame
ignite and can be shoved into the container where they insure ignition of the smoke that rises up through the char bed. The plate gets extremely hot and also ignites the raw wood pieces (see photo) and these can be pushed into the fuel container to extend
the cooking time. This stove usually burns at high power for about 90 minutes and if additional simmering time is needed, the charcoal or wood on the plate does the trick. In the photo, the white material under the bricks is cast into a steel oil drain pan,
and consists of Plaster, Perlite, and crushed glass. This is an insulator, and is heavy enough to hold a steel lid on top of the body of the stove as well as provide mass so the cook has a sturdy cooking surface. The grate is a cast iron frying pan perforated
with many small drilled holes. This grate will tolerate the use of a small fan (if required) to provide additional air if one chooses to burn some of the charcoal, but I usually dump the charcoal into a tub of water<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">as soon as the flames die down.<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 2:05 PM Kirk H. <<a href="mailto:gkharris316@comcast.net">gkharris316@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span lang="EN-US">If there are any TLUD-ND people out there who are having problems with smoky and smelly transition from wood flame to charcoal flame, attached is a solution that
works for me.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span lang="EN-US"> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span lang="EN-US">Kirk H.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span lang="EN-US"> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span lang="EN-US">Sent from
<a href="https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=02%7C01%7C%7C1a06cfeb0d0d4dfc8f0b08d601590261%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636697879137573674&sdata=51eAlClCcJvwzR2d4eeA53O4%2BUFZx99b8T3Q7NbNlrs%3D&reserved=0" target="_blank">
Mail</a> for Windows 10<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span lang="EN-US"> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Ray Menke<o:p></o:p></p>
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