[Greenbuilding] FINISHES for MDF vs Particleboard vs Whatever

[Chris Koehn]

We use butcher block oil, which is a food grade mineral oil, on butcher blocks and cutting boards. Available from places like Lee valley. Don't care for Tung oil in the kitchen: if a coating type finish is preferred we go to a poly typically. 
BTW sanding sealers, or pre-stain sealers, are designed to even out finish over porous woods like pine. 
In the U.S. I prefer General Finishes products, but it's tough to get up here in B.C. Some times I resort to smuggling..

Chris
TimberGuides

On 2010-10-25, at 9:20 AM, JOHN SALMEN wrote:

Tung oil is the hardest drying oil out there and can be purchased and used as a raw ‘pure’ product. Though it is marketed (lee valley) as a food safe (pure oil only) technically it is still a toxic substance until it has reacted sufficiently with oxygen and sunlight to cure (about 7 days). As a raw product it is put in very thin coats with 4-8hrs drying between – needing as many as 6 coats to provide a decent sacrificial surface. It is virtually waterproof and hard and has a matte finish – can be powerbuffed to a dull sheen. Very easy to repair and renew by simply sanding an area and wiping on more oil – blends easily.
 
If you want a shiny surface with tung it needs to be a polymerized oil (usually through heat – but often with metal driers and resins added) and the marketed versions of that usually are also usually diluted with a solvent. So commercially this type of product is a little more unknown. You can make your own by simply placing a dish of oil in the sun for a few days then dilute with a clean thinner (pure turp or citrus – pure turp has less potential for allergic reactions).
 
Other drying oils suitable for food surfaces are walnut oil, sunflower and safflower oil (typically oils with a low acid value).
 
Stone and concrete are porous and people get pretty annoyed at how bad they can look after a while and/or the amount of maintenance needed. I like the look of deteriorating stone but I am a minority. Most all readily available (or affective) stone sealers are silicone based usually with a solvent that allows for some penetration. Top sealers (acrylic) are also used but they are sacrificial and subsequently have to be stripped to be renewed. I have had success with magnesium silicate in a liquid preparation as a top sealer for concrete and have also used tung oil. Basic pure carnuba wax is decent sacrificial alternative to acrylic as a sacrificial surface – but care has to be taken with cleaning and waxing to not trap moisture and soaps.
 
Finishes are about providing both a sacrificial surface that will hopefully trap a staining material (before it stains) and allow a material to wear evenly – they are also a look. First off determine the ‘look’ you want. If you want it bright and shiny – question your reasons as you are demanding more of the finish and more finish to achieve that over time. Also you don’t want the finish to add to the chemical soup – more durability typically means more toxicity.
 
John
 
 
 
JOHN SALMEN ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN
4465 UPHILL RD,. DUNCAN, B.C.  CANADA, V9L 6M7
PH 250 748 7672 FAX 250 748 7612 CELL 250 246 8541
terrain at shaw.ca
 
From: Melissa Andron [mailto:melissa at realmdesignstudio.com] 
Sent: October 25, 2010 3:38 AM
To: 'Alan Abrams'; 'JOHN SALMEN'
Cc: 'Chris Koehn'; Greenbuilding at bioenergylists.org
Subject: [Greenbuilding] FINISHES for MDF vs Particleboard vs Whatever
 
Alan, what are you (and others) using to finish/seal these wood countertops?  What have you had successes with?  Failures?  
 
I realize that a client’s priorities dictate what we’re able to use—a client with chemical sensitivities may require a very different finish (or even material) than a client who does not have this issue and prioritizes longevity over all else.  There was a time in my life where the former was a requirement for ME based on my health, but now, after many years, I’m in much better health—and would be more likely to choose something that might offgas a bit (and preferably allow it to do this in my garage/workshop for some time!) but would last indefinitely (just as sustainable an option, in my book, if it doesn’t have to be replaced for a much longer time). 
 
Thanks!
 
Melissa (Andron) Walter, LEED AP, GreenAP, Allied Member ASID
realm design studio, inc.
sustainable interior design
919.649.2384
www.realmdesignstudio.com
or see us on Facebook!
member: Green Homebuilders of the Triangle
 
From: greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] On Behalf Of Alan Abrams
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 6:18 AM
To: JOHN SALMEN
Cc: Chris Koehn; Greenbuilding at bioenergylists.org
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] MDF vs Particleboard vs Whatever
 
Nothing like wood for counters.  When I can sell it, we're using urban harvest black walnut, which is as beautiful as it is stable (I have a walnut vanity top with an undermount sink, made as an durability experiment.  after four years of daily exposure to water, it is in great shape.  

We did a large portion of a kitchen with urban harvest mulberry--also dense, fairly stable, and unexpectedly beautiful.  As I've mentioned before, there are at least three sets of high grade white pine counters still in service that I made in the early 80's--one of which housing a sink.

regrettably, I have ripped out countless proprietary (Bally or similar) maple butcher block counters that were severely warped and delaminated.

Alan Abrams
Abrams Design Build LLC
A sustainable approach to beautiful space
alan at abramsdesignbuild.com
www.abramsdesignbuild.com
202-726-5894 o
202-437-8583 c
202-291-0626 f
 
 
Butcher block is a good counter surface for dry areas that can be used well and refinished as needed.
 

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