[Greenbuilding] Redoing all floors

[Ktot (g)]

***See below...

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "RT" <Archilogic at yahoo.ca>
To: "Green Building" <greenbuilding at lists.bioenergylists.org>
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2011 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Redoing all floors


> On Wed, 27 Jul 2011 17:56:11 -0400, Ktot (g) <ktottotc at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Talking to various experts, at least 28 days should have been left 
>> between pour and cure.

***In my case, obviously 11 days was not adequate. One just need look at the 
floor to see that.
>
> Either you or the "various experts" are confused because the above
> statement makes no sense.
> A look at the strength vs time graph (example shown in link provided in 
> previous message)
> will quickly illustrate why.
>
> There is no assurance that grinding down improperly cured concrete
> (whether it be with carborundum stones or diamond stones) will yield a
> better finished surface.
>
> If the concrete was crappy concrete (ie compromised mix quality due to 
> addition of water at the site, followed by improper curing) to begin with, 
> grinding away the more dense surface layer (created as a result of the 
> troweling process) is only going to expose more poor quality concrete.

***NO water was added at the site. The concrete came straight out of the 
concrete truck, as seven pea gravel mix or something like that. I'm sure no 
water was added as none was available--my solar/wind system wasn't in so my 
well wasn't yet working and my contractor did not haul in water other than 
maybe a bit for cleaning tools and the like.
>
> Then you'd still have to apply surface treatments in order to make the 
> concrete look and wear like something other than crappy concrete. And 
> since the wear layer would only be a very thin, chemical stew film, it's 
> likely need to be refinished again and again and again over the years.

***I really do NOT believe the concrete pour or mix itself was at all 
defective. This was a very reputable contractor--just one who doesn't know 
how to react properly when they have perhaps their first failure in stained 
concrete.
>
> Why bother with the time, trouble, mess , energy and expense ?
>
> I'd cover it over with tile (preferably an unglazed, fully vitrified 
> porcelain or such-like) or stone (not a limestone or marble because 
> they're too soft).

***I've mentioned several times I'm looking at porcelain tile, in part 
because I'm edgy about going through any more potential disasters with 
concrete. That said, what is "unglazed, fully vitrified porcelain"? I've 
looked at tiles at the various flooring stores, which include those by 
Arizona Tile, Florida Tile, and various other companies. I have no idea what 
unglazed... is nor how to look for it. The stone I've looked at is slate but 
that still will show dog nail scratches so I'm leaning strongly towards 
porcelain. So please explain your term a bit further. Also why you say that 
kind is preferable. Thank you.
>
>
> -- 
> === * ===
> Rob Tom
> Kanata, Ontario, Canada
> < A r c h i L o g i c  at  Y a h o o  dot  C A >
> (manually winnow the chaff from my edress if you hit REPLY)
>
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