[Greenbuilding] insulating cinder block walls?

[Reuben Deumling]

Thanks, Rob.

You talked me out of the cinder block altogether. I decided to go with
staggered 2x4s (dumpster) on a 2x6 plate (dumpster) and cellulose instead.
I think the combination should offer a better sound and thermal insulation
package.

On Mon, Mar 2, 2015 at 9:48 AM, RT <ArchiLogic at yahoo.ca> wrote:

>  Sounds like a job for Strawbale Lite.
>
> IIRC, Reuben is located somewhere on the West Coast, in a climate that's
> relatively mild and since the shed is not for human occupation,
> full-thickness strawbale walls wouldn't really be necessary, especially
> moreso given the miniscule interior footprint.
>
> So, how about:
>
> (1) Harvesting four of those discarded mattresses that appear regularly at
> the curbs on garbage day in most urban centres
>
> (2) Remove the fabric covering to reveal the coil springs / wire frame
> assembly
>
> (3) Spread the thickness of the former mattress by inserting temporary
> props
>
> (4) Clip some mesh to the faces of the mattress
>
> (5) Fill the space with straw (or other insulating material)
>
> (6) Remove the props and BOI-N-N-NGGGG let the springs compress the
> insulation between the mesh faces
>
> (7)  Make a picture frame to serve as a form into which a plaster mix of
> your choice can be placed
>
> (8) Set the form on a flat surface on top of salvaged polyethylene sheet
> which will function as a separation membrane
>
> (9) Place plastering mud inside form
>
> (10) Plop your spring tension-compressed , meshed-faced straw panel into
> the wet mud, ensuring that the mesh on the face gets fully embedded
>
> (11) Place identical picture frame form over top face of straw mattress
> panel, suspended at proper height by short scrap lumber cut-offs
>
> (12) Place wet paster mud into top form
>
> (13) Do any desired artistic embellishement to surface of plaster (easy
> since you're working on a horizontal surface and which would be otherwise
> difficult on a vertical surface)  ie sculpting, bead moulded edges, stone
> dash, tile mosaics etc
>
> (14) Cover the thing and go for a 7-15 day bike ride and/or snowshoe hike
> (or ho-hum, do some work) and let it cure properly
>
> (15) Tilt-up the panel using the polyethylene ground sheet to lift and
>
> (16) Voila !  Insulated modular wall panel that kept a bunch of bulky
> mattresses out of the landfill.
>
> (The roof could be made from a king-sized mattress, configured as an
> arched panel with salvaged patio door tempered glass as a rainscreen
> cladding over.)
>
> But if you prefer the cinder block route, I think I'd look at an insulated
> core, double wythe wall, using 4" thick masonry units rather than futz
> around with trying to insulate a single wythe 6" wall.
>
>
> --
> === * ===
> Rob Tom ADT1
> Kanata, Ontario, Canada
> On Mon, 02 Mar 2015 11:41:23 -0500, Reuben Deumling <9watts at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> I'm building a small sound-insulated shed interior footprint: 36"x45" to
> house some dust collection equipment. Three of the six sides of this box
> will be insulated: the one shared with the building it is adjacent to, the
> floor, and the ceiling. Of the three remaining walls, one will be a weather
> stripped door. The last two are 6" cinder block which I plan to fill with
> fine gravel. The 5hp motor which powers this dust collection is expected to
> produce some heat, and the air drawn into the shed will be pretty much
> immediately exhausted back into the shop space, so any insulation I might
> add would be primarily to reduce heat loss of this air-passing-through,
> more than the air in the shed while the dust collection isn't running. I'm
> thinking of installing a baffle on the return port to help this be so.
> Given those parameters do any of you think it worth adding some type of
> insulation to the cinder block walls?
>
> Thanks very much.
>
>
>
>
>
>
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