[Greenbuilding] Need a Floor Refinishing Product Recommendation
Frank Tettemer
frank at livingsol.com
Wed May 13 17:54:10 CDT 2015
Sorry about that Gennaro. Wrong link.
Here's the link to the pure tung oil>
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20049&cat=1,190,42942
I don't know the Milk Paint products, but I've used this Lee Valley
Tools product for over a couple of decades.
I usually buy the citrus solvent from Eco-House, (which is a great
little family-run company), and thin down the tung oil bought from Lee
Valley Tools, using this citrus solvent.
http://www.eco-house.com/natural-wood-finishes/solvents/
I looked at the other products from the Milk Paint company, and they
look good, though unreachable here in Canada. The exchange rate is such
a killer that it's impossible to cross border shop with any sensibility.
Buying Canadian, using the US dollar, works really well, going the other
way.
Frank
On 13/05/2015 3:49 PM, Gennaro Brooks-Church - Eco Brooklyn wrote:
> That tung oil doesn't claim to be pure. I've used this pure tung oil
> with good results
> http://www.realmilkpaint.com/products/oils/
>
> On Wednesday, May 13, 2015, Frank Tettemer <frank at livingsol.com
> <mailto:frank at livingsol.com>> wrote:
>
> Hi Benjamin,
>
> Sorry; I wasn't very clear.
> To be clear, I wasn't referring to any urethane finish; neither
> water based nor oil base is suitable for my liking. Either one
> requires boxing up your goods and moving out of the house before
> sanding and refinishing.
>
> I would prefer an oil finish, preferably tung based, that requires
> wiping onThin coats, building up the coats, and topping it with a
> carnauba/beeswax floor polish. Then the polish takes the wear, and
> can be re-applied periodically.
>
> If it waxing maintenence gets away on you, and the wax and the oil
> wears through, on stairs and corridors, then it needs refinishing.
> No need to sand. This involves deep scrubbing, to remove all dirt,
> grease, etc.. Then the oil finish is reapplied, super thin coats.
> Many coats later, and you are ready to top coat with wax again.
> Just as annoying, but at least you don't have to strip or sand
> before refinishing.
> Same treatment for hardwood furniture, turned wooden bowls,
> jewelry boxes.
>
> Here's a good quality wax finish:
> http://www.eco-house.com/product-category/natural-wood-finishes/wax-finishes/.
>
> I have furniture that needs re-oiling every half dozen years or
> so. Our maple flooring has been re-coated with three coats once,
> since the first application of eight coats about twenty years ago.
> Kitchen cabinets are cherry and maple, and have been wiped down
> and re-oiled a few times in two decades. Same goes for wooden bowls.
>
> Reuben, I don't know Osmo. Product of USA?
>
> Gennaro, tung oilships from Lee Valley Tools,
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20051&cat=1,190,42942
> This has directions for controlling the gloss of the finish.
> This is the Tung oil, to mix with the above tung oil sealer
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20050&cat=1,190,42942
>
> Frank
>
>
> On 13/05/2015 2:08 PM, Benjamin Pratt wrote:
>
> Frank's point about stripping is very interesting. I am
> surprised that the water based products require this, since,
> at least on furniture, you can lightly sand the urethane and
> it will take more coats easily. If ore stan is required,
> wouldn't you have to sand off oil based poly as well? Can you
> elaborate?
> Thanks
>
>
> b e n j a m i n p r a t t
>
> professor art+design
> the university of wisconsin stout
>
> On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 1:02 PM, Reuben Deumling
> <9watts at gmail.com <mailto:9watts at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Osmo Hardwax Oil?
>
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> --
> Frank Tettemer
> Living Sol ~ Building and Design
> www.livingsol.com <http://www.livingsol.com>
> 613 756 3884
>
>
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> --
> Gennaro Brooks-Church
> Director, Eco Brooklyn Inc.
> Cell: 1 347 244 3016 USA
> www.EcoBrooklyn.com <http://www.EcoBrooklyn.com>
> 22 2nd St; Brooklyn, NY 11231
>
>
>
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--
Frank Tettemer
Living Sol ~ Building and Design
www.livingsol.com
613 756 3884
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