[Greenbuilding] wood split or not, make a difference?

[Kathy Cochran]

I second that.  If I don't get my thermometer up to about 550-650, then it
takes forever to heat the place up.  Also, I put in a chimney damper, as
well as the built-in one on the stove.  That seems to keep a lot more heat
inside the stove.  I felt I had to do that because the building department
insisted on me installing an outside air gap.  In retrospect, I probably
could have talked them out of it, because since my 1939 house is not
"air-tight" I probably didn't really need it.   With that chimney damper I
have no problem in getting the temperature up to 600 degrees, then I can
damp down the bottom damper and keep it burning for a long time.  I was
having really "short-lived" fires before the chimney damper was installed.  

 

Kathy Cochran  

 

From: greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org
[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] On Behalf Of Reuben
Deumling
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 9:48 AM
To: Environmentally-preferable design, construction, building elements
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] wood split or not, make a difference?

 

 

On Tue, Dec 28, 2010 at 9:34 AM, Corwyn <corwyn at midcoast.com> wrote:


Burn temperatures don't _directly_ affect heat output.


Interesting. It seems I have once again loaned out my copy of the
Encyclopedia of Wood Heat--I think that is the title--so I can't look this
up.However I know, even without the book on hand, that if I keep my fire at
a temperature that registers 600F in the flue, I get a lot more heat per
stick of wood than if I keep my fire at 400F in the flue as I used to think
I should. I did once calculate how much 'a lot more' translated to, but
can't look that up just now. 

Reuben Deumling

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