[Greenbuilding] alive and wall

Tim Vireo Keating t.keating at rainforestrelief.org
Mon Feb 7 11:01:59 CST 2011


But it doesn't seem all that easy to find Western 
red cedar in the northeast that can be assured to 
not be from old growth. Eastern white cedar is 
plentiful but likely not as long-lasting. On the 
other hand, I do know a source of salvaged 
Atlantic whitecedar. Given the dimensions 
suggested, this would be easy to use. But AWC is 
less structural (IMHO) than other cedars 
(actually, AWC isn't a cedar, per se, but a 
cypress).

Termites could still be an issue, though.

tim keating

At 10:08 PM -0800 2/5/11, Kathy Cochran wrote:
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0444_01CBC581.354EC980"
>Content-Language: en-us
>
>
>When researching what wood to use to build 
>long-lasting raised garden beds, I have 
>discovered that the "professional" raised garden 
>beds producers use cedar.  I checked with my 
>local hardware/lumber store, and they said that 
>it would last way longer than redwood  - 
>probably at least 40 years - and that is with 
>direct contact with soil, water, etc. AND  - it 
>is way cheaper too!  I don't know if it would 
>have the strength to handle the requirements of 
>Gennaro's wall, but it might be worth looking 
>into.
>
>I think the idea of rubber patches between wood 
>is excellent.  When  my deck was built, they 
>covered all the stringers with bituthane (sp?) 
>so that wood would not be rubbing against wood, 
>(no squeaking!) and also water from above would 
>not damage the sub-structure.  One of the more 
>intelligent things that were doneŠŠŠŠŠŠŠŠ
>
>
>Kathy Cochran
>PO Box 117
>San Andreas, California 95249
>(209) 754-4201
>Kathys_old_house at goldrush.com
>
>
>
>From: 
>greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org 
>[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] 
>On Behalf Of Clarke Olsen
>Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 8:14 PM
>To: Green Building
>Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] alive and wall
>
>RT is right: build with white oak, locust, or larch (tamarack), and 
>it will last, if not the absolute 50 years, certainly until someone
>tears it down. When fastening wood together in outdoor construction, 
>insert a dry break between wood to wood contact.
>Something on the order of a rubber patch (old inner-tube) where 
>pieces overlap will reduce the speed of decomposition.
>Encouraging  plants to grab onto masonry can be asking for trouble... 
>a root cause of decay.
>Clarke Olsen
>373 route 203
>Spencertown, NY 12165
>USA
>518-392-4640
>colsen at fairpoint.net
>
>
>>  On Sat, 05 Feb 2011 14:52:41 -0500, Gennaro Brooks-Church
>>  <info at ecobrooklyn.com> wrote:
>>
>>>  I'm building a 35*20 foot exterior living wall that needs to hold 
>>>  most of
>>>  its weight and is attached to a brick brownstone facade. I am 
>>>  looking for
>>>  long lasting (50 plus?) materials to form the structure.
>>
>>  ..........................
>>
>>  It appears that Gennaro is simply wanting to hang a trellis for some
>>  greenery to climb on ?
>>
>>  But if a construction of some sort is absolutely necessary, it 
>>  seems bizarre that an aspiring "Green" builder would opt for high 
>>  embodied-energy aluminum or stainless steel framing components or 
>>  cable. It seems akin to trying to shave with a tub grinder.
>>  ............................
>>  For a "serious" trellis, White oak lumber (which I know is so 
>>  plentiful in the NE states that people hack up good sized trees and 
>>  burn it for firewood ) would be a good choice I would think. I have 
>>  no doubt that it would easily last for the 50 year time frame 
>>  Gennaro specifies.
>>
>>  --
>>  === * ===
>>  Rob Tom
>>  Kanata, Ontario, Canada
>>  < A r c h i L o g i c  at  Y a h o o  dot  c a >
>>  manually winnow the chaff from my edress if you hit "reply"
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