[Greenbuilding] New HVAC unit

[Bob Klahn]

Bobbie,
Clearing backed email, or the last might've been longer.  If you can see 
the nails in the old window trim, you can drive them through with a 
thin,long nosed, punch.  Then run a sharp utility knife along the paint 
of the wall/trim joints to make a weak seam, so the break will be clean, 
not ragged with flakes.  Get two Hyde "scrape and pry" bars - very thin, 
stiff steel prys with wide flared blades (also know as "hive tools" 
among beekeepers).  Ease (drive gently) one in under the widest crack in 
the seam and lift gently.  Once you get the joint to open, fit the 
second next to the first to hold the gap open, than work them down the 
joint, alternating the pry and shim tactic.  Most rim can be removed 
without damage; it just takes patience and gentle prying.  A wide, thin 
putty knife blade, between the surface you are using as fulcrum and the 
pry will help avoid leaving tracks by spreading the pressure.

Make sure you limit the caulk/foam to the interior -except for places 
where rain can obviously enter; the wall needs to be able to dry.  
Remember to leave any water that gets behind the siding a gravity- 
driven path out.

Bon Klahn

On 6/6/2011 11:36 AM, Bobbi Chukran wrote:
> Bob/OKC,
>
> Caulk and foam!  Check!
>
> I was under the wrong impression that you didn't replace your 
> windows.  I've been trying to find out how I can add insulation to the 
> sides under the trim without ripping off all the trim.  It has 50 
> years worth of paint on it, and the wallboard is flush beside some of it.
>
> bobbi c.
>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Home-NRG.vcf
Type: text/x-vcard
Size: 400 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://lists.bioenergylists.org/pipermail/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org/attachments/20110606/79b9cabf/attachment.vcf>