[Greenbuilding] sealing plywood floor?

Benjamin Pratt benjamin.g.pratt at gmail.com
Tue Apr 3 12:32:58 CDT 2012


wouldn't 1/2 plywood warp over time? I don't knwo the procedure.

On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 12:28 PM, Michael O'Brien <obrien at hevanet.com> wrote:
> Hi, Reuben--
>
> To clarify what is being finished--I'm sure it's obvious, but the plywood
> should be exterior grade. Practically speaking, moisture won't be able to
> pass through the phenolic adhesive between the plys. Are the two layers
> free-floating over the sand? Is that OK--they won't move when there's
> traffic on them?
>
> It seems like a hardwood would work better than a softwood like fir,
> costlier but might hold up to traffic better, especially on half-inch
> sheets. (I wonder if 5/8" might be worth it for extra stiffness?)
>
> I'd suggest coating both sides and all edges with a water-resistant finish,
> while the plywood is dry. Have you looked at Miller's Evolution satin
> exterior paint? It's reasonably priced for its performance. Miller staff can
> help decide if a wood filler is needed. The satin finish would make it
> easier to clean.
>
> Might be good to leave a little space between edges for expansion and to
> stagger the joints between the two layers, to slow any moisture from the
> sand layer.
>
> Is that about what you already figured out? :^ )
>
> Best,
>
> Mike O'Brien
>
>
>
> On Apr 3, 2012, at 9:32 AM, Reuben Deumling wrote:
>
> I'm planning on assembling a floating double layer of 1/2" plywood over foam
> over sand that JOHN SALMEN described here in the past, and as this is for a
> basement wood shop I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions about what to
> seal or paint the plywood with to maximize its longevity?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Reuben
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-- 


b e n j a m i n p r a t t

professor art+design
the university of wisconsin stout




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