[Greenbuilding] sealing plywood floor?

Tue Apr 3 13:48:07 CDT 2012

Why is it a silly project. I makes a lot of sense to me.

Gennaro Brooks-Church
Director, Eco Brooklyn Inc.
Cell: 1 347 244 3016 USA
www.EcoBrooklyn.com
22 2nd St; Brooklyn, NY 11231

On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 2:19 PM, Douglas E Lamb
<douglaslamb at columbus.rr.com> wrote:
> Mr. Deumling,
>
> Be more succinct in your request next time.
> You ask for reference to surface finishes on wood mentioned from a previous
> thread for wood you are putting in you basement. (God only knows why)
> I provided you a site that offers coating for wood as well as other
> surfaces that was mentioned from a previous thread and as you requested. (I
> hate being redundant!)
> You project isn't worthy of succinctness.
> It is down right silly.
> Left it @ that.
>
> Regards,
> Doug Lamb
> douglaslamb at columbus.rr.com
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org
> [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] On Behalf Of Reuben
> Deumling
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2012 1:40 PM
> To: Green Building
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] sealing plywood floor?
>
> This is one of the succinct summaries of this sandwich:
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: JOHN SALMEN <terrain at shaw.ca>
> Date: Wed, Apr 20, 2011 at 9:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] building floor on top of rigid foam...
> (basement/garage retrofit)
> To: ArchiLogic at chaffyahoo.ca, Green Building
> <greenbuilding at lists.bioenergylists.org>, satjiwan at alumni.brandeis.edu
>
>
> I missed this thread somehow. I can testify that putting a floor directly on
> eps foam is a great system. I have done this in a number of renovations, new
> homes and a school.  The basic spec. is rigid eps board (minimum 4”)  on a
> level surface w/ t&g ply sheathing laminated directly to the foam with a
> suitable adhesive. That is it.  The level surface does not have to be
> concrete – it can be a granular base (sand).
>
>
>
> The real point of this approach is to avoid the use of concrete or in the
> case of insulating on existing concrete to isolate from moisture and to
> minimize the use of unnecessary materials.
>
>
>
> As for materials the ‘suitable adhesive’ is generally specified as a
> polyurethane foam adhesive (enerbond or equiv.). If the finished floor is to
> be ¾” solid wood nailed -  I specify a min. 5/8” t&g ply sheathing. If it is
> tile I generally specify either a thickset mortar directly on the foam
> (w/reinf.) or an additional layer of ½” ply laminated and fastened @ 3”
> o.c.  I’ve found that most contractors get the concept pretty quickly but
> the trick is that in putting down the ply it needs to be flattened and
> weighted down while the adhesive sets (concrete block, buckets with sand,
> etc...)
>
>
>
> For your application I would eliminate any subfloor wood framing (sleepers).
> Waste of time and material. eps boards can be ordered cut to the thickness
> needed for the finished product. Using foam on an existing slab it is nice
> to have additional thickness – 5-6” foam can span any deflections or defects
> in the concrete. I would spot adhere the foam to the concrete.
>
>
>
> Essentially the finished floor (eps and ply) is a weight bearing floating
> floor that can carry standard interior partition loads well. It is a pretty
> nice floor.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 10:32 AM, Benjamin Pratt <benjamin.g.pratt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>>
>> wouldn't 1/2 plywood warp over time? I don't knwo the procedure.
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 12:28 PM, Michael O'Brien <obrien at hevanet.com>
>> wrote:
>> > Hi, Reuben--
>> >
>> > To clarify what is being finished--I'm sure it's obvious, but the
>> > plywood
>> > should be exterior grade. Practically speaking, moisture won't be able
>> > to
>> > pass through the phenolic adhesive between the plys. Are the two layers
>> > free-floating over the sand? Is that OK--they won't move when there's
>> > traffic on them?
>> >
>> > It seems like a hardwood would work better than a softwood like fir,
>> > costlier but might hold up to traffic better, especially on half-inch
>> > sheets. (I wonder if 5/8" might be worth it for extra stiffness?)
>> >
>> > I'd suggest coating both sides and all edges with a water-resistant
>> > finish,
>> > while the plywood is dry. Have you looked at Miller's Evolution satin
>> > exterior paint? It's reasonably priced for its performance. Miller staff
>> > can
>> > help decide if a wood filler is needed. The satin finish would make it
>> > easier to clean.
>> >
>> > Might be good to leave a little space between edges for expansion and to
>> > stagger the joints between the two layers, to slow any moisture from the
>> > sand layer.
>> >
>> > Is that about what you already figured out? :^ )
>> >
>> > Best,
>> >
>> > Mike O'Brien
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > On Apr 3, 2012, at 9:32 AM, Reuben Deumling wrote:
>> >
>> > I'm planning on assembling a floating double layer of 1/2" plywood over
>> > foam
>> > over sand that JOHN SALMEN described here in the past, and as this is
>> > for a
>> > basement wood shop I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions about what to
>> > seal or paint the plywood with to maximize its longevity?
>> >
>> > Thanks.
>> >
>> > Reuben
>> > _______________________________________________
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>> >
>> >
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>>
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>> b e n j a m i n p r a t t
>>
>> professor art+design
>> the university of wisconsin stout
>>
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>
>
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