[Greenbuilding] Interior Storm Windows

[Jason Holstine]

http://www.advancedenergypanels.com/ -  a company in upstate NY, makes storm
window ³inserts², custom sized to each window.


On 11/30/12 6:46 PM, "Eli Talking" <elitalking at rockbridge.net> wrote:

>  
> Corwyn writes:
> The other way (to avoid sweating on windows) is to raise the temperature of
> the glass.  Traditionally
> this was done by putting the central heating output right under the
> windows so that hot air washed over the surface warming it up.  Now, the
> solution is generally to increase the insulation value of the windows.
> The interior storm windows are a cheap way to do this, adding about R-2
> to a window for about $1.50 per square foot (if you make them yourself),
> I make them for around $4.00 per square foot.  Raising the temperature
> of the glass will also increase comfort levels (even at the same air
> temperature.
>  
> Corwyn
>  
> What kind of glazing do you use.
>  
> I am interested in using inexpensive storm windows as you describe to improve
> the performance of common standard and existing windows.  If frame can be
> light and narrow, the visual impact would be minimized.  I see the design task
> as making the stops to receive the storm sash.
>  
> Eli  
>  
>  
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Corwyn 
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 6:24 PM
> To: Green Building
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Airtight windows
>  
> On 10/28/2012 1:20 PM, Sacie Lambertson wrote:
> Our windows are starting to condensate at the base on the
>> > inside.  Many of you have suggested this is the penalty of winter.
>> > Isn't there anything I can do about it?
>  
> See my previous suggestion for interior storm windows.
>  
> Here's the basics of when you will get condensation.  When the dewpoint
> temperature of the inside air is a the same as (or greater than) the
> temperature of the inside surface of the windows (or anything else in
> your house), that surface will condense water.  So in order to avoid
> condensation you need to either lower the dewpoint of the air inside, by
> reducing the humidity, or increase the temperature of the inside surface
> of the windows.
>  
> Whether the humidity is too high is a matter of perspective and some
> controversy.  Get a humidity gauge and measure what yours is.  Generally
> somewhere in the 40% - 60% range is recommended, but balance is between
> being too dry (and the dry throat and colds that that produces) and
> being too wet and the mold and mildew (and the allergies that
> aggravates), so decide for yourself.  That said, lowering the humidity
> will reduce the condensation (and vice versa).  One of the things we
> generally see is that as people increase the air tightness of their
> house they need to go from worrying about too low humidity to worrying
> about too high humidity.  At that point, you are probably in the place
> where you will need to have supplemental ventilation (for fresh air
> reasons), and an HRV will take care of the humidity issue.
>  
> The other way is to raise the temperature of the glass.  Traditionally
> this was done by putting the central heating output right under the
> windows so that hot air washed over the surface warming it up.  Now, the
> solution is generally to increase the insulation value of the windows.
> The interior storm windows are a cheap way to do this, adding about R-2
> to a window for about $1.50 per square foot (if you make them yourself),
> I make them for around $4.00 per square foot.  Raising the temperature
> of the glass will also increase comfort levels (even at the same air
> temperature.
>  
> Thank You Kindly,
>  
> Corwyn
>  
>  

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