[Greenbuilding] Interior Storm Windows

[John Salmen]

We use magnets (strong rare earth) for attachment of screens –for an
exterior storm window the mags can be recessed into sash or frame from the
interior to avoid damaging the exterior (to within an 1/8 or ¼ of exterior
wood – depending on magnet strength). A magnet cup or washer can be screwed
to the sash (countersunk slightly or proud to allow weatherstripping
compression ). Can be a very strong simple attachment capable of
withstanding heavy winds.

 

From: Greenbuilding [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org]
On Behalf Of Eli Talking
Sent: November-30-12 3:47 PM
To: Green Building
Subject: [Greenbuilding] Interior Storm Windows

 

 

Corwyn writes:

The other way (to avoid sweating on windows) is to raise the temperature of
the glass.  Traditionally 

this was done by putting the central heating output right under the 

windows so that hot air washed over the surface warming it up.  Now, the 

solution is generally to increase the insulation value of the windows. 

The interior storm windows are a cheap way to do this, adding about R-2 

to a window for about $1.50 per square foot (if you make them yourself), 

I make them for around $4.00 per square foot.  Raising the temperature 

of the glass will also increase comfort levels (even at the same air 

temperature.

 

Corwyn

 

What kind of glazing do you use.  

 

I am interested in using inexpensive storm windows as you describe to
improve the performance of common standard and existing windows.  If frame
can be light and narrow, the visual impact would be minimized.  I see the
design task as making the stops to receive the storm sash. 

 

Eli  

 

 

 

-----Original Message----- 

From: Corwyn 

Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 6:24 PM 

To: Green Building 

Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Airtight windows 

 

On 10/28/2012 1:20 PM, Sacie Lambertson wrote:

Our windows are starting to condensate at the base on the

> inside.  Many of you have suggested this is the penalty of winter.

> Isn't there anything I can do about it?

 

See my previous suggestion for interior storm windows.

 

Here's the basics of when you will get condensation.  When the dewpoint 

temperature of the inside air is a the same as (or greater than) the 

temperature of the inside surface of the windows (or anything else in 

your house), that surface will condense water.  So in order to avoid 

condensation you need to either lower the dewpoint of the air inside, by 

reducing the humidity, or increase the temperature of the inside surface 

of the windows.

 

Whether the humidity is too high is a matter of perspective and some 

controversy.  Get a humidity gauge and measure what yours is.  Generally 

somewhere in the 40% - 60% range is recommended, but balance is between 

being too dry (and the dry throat and colds that that produces) and 

being too wet and the mold and mildew (and the allergies that 

aggravates), so decide for yourself.  That said, lowering the humidity 

will reduce the condensation (and vice versa).  One of the things we 

generally see is that as people increase the air tightness of their 

house they need to go from worrying about too low humidity to worrying 

about too high humidity.  At that point, you are probably in the place 

where you will need to have supplemental ventilation (for fresh air 

reasons), and an HRV will take care of the humidity issue.

 

The other way is to raise the temperature of the glass.  Traditionally 

this was done by putting the central heating output right under the 

windows so that hot air washed over the surface warming it up.  Now, the 

solution is generally to increase the insulation value of the windows. 

The interior storm windows are a cheap way to do this, adding about R-2 

to a window for about $1.50 per square foot (if you make them yourself), 

I make them for around $4.00 per square foot.  Raising the temperature 

of the glass will also increase comfort levels (even at the same air 

temperature.

 

Thank You Kindly,

 

Corwyn

 

 

-- 

Topher Belknap

Green Fret Consulting

Kermit didn't know the half of it...

http://www.greenfret.com/

topher at greenfret.com

(207) 882-7652

 

_______________________________________________

Greenbuilding mailing list

to Send a Message to the list, use the email address

Greenbuilding at bioenergylists.org

 

to UNSUBSCRIBE or Change your List Settings use the web page

http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioener
gylists.org

 

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.bioenergylists.org/pipermail/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org/attachments/20121201/13c5562d/attachment.html>