[Greenbuilding] wood treatment

Jason Holstine jason at amicusgreen.com
Mon Jan 14 17:26:48 CST 2013 

Water-lox is toxic. It¹s polymerized tung oil...basterdized and
chemicalized. only tung oil in ancestry.


On 1/13/13 10:27 PM, "John Salmen" <terrain at shaw.ca> wrote:

> That was my bad luck as well. Black spots from hell
> I¹ve had no experience with waterlox and the website doesn¹t say what it is ­
> most advertised tung oil products are Œtung oil finishes¹ which mostly contain
> linseed oil.  For smaller quantities I¹ve been purchasing pure tung oil from a
> montreal supplier
> http://www.swingpaints.com/2142us_can.htm
>  
>  
> 
> From: Greenbuilding [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] On
> Behalf Of Clarke Olsen
> Sent: January-13-13 7:13 PM
> To: Green Building
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] wood treatment
>  
> I have had bad luck with Linseed oil: cut 25% with thinner, it developed black
> spots on a south facing door.
> 
> Who would have thought one could grow mold in direct sun! What do you think of
> Water-lox?
> 
> Clarke Olsen
> clarkeolsendesign.com <http://clarkeolsendesign.com>
> 373 route 203
> Spencertown, NY 12165
> USA
> 518-392-4640
> colsen at taconic.net
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> On Jan 13, 2013, at 9:26 PM, John Salmen wrote:
> 
> 
> I am not a fan of linseed oil for exterior as it is attractive as a food ­ so
> it blackens, mildews, etc. People argue about this saying it is stable once it
> is catalyzed but its an oil with limited inherent anti-microbial properties
> and in my experience in a moist environment it is just food for biological
> activity.
> 
> Any coating on wood as a Œpreservative¹ is sacrificial (even the toxic ones)
> so it does come back to what the natural properties of the wood are. Typically
> Œwood¹ exposed to air, some moisture and sunlight loses about a ¼² of surface
> in a 100 years. Obviously if kept saturated or in humid conditions other
> biological activity will hasten that. So if installed nicely above soil levels
> and well aired most surfaces can survive. Problem is they get grey and checked
> and splintery (that rugged look). So people want to have some finish that
> keeps them looking newer. Ironically most surface finishes can retain moisture
> so can actually hasten decay. Wood moves and cracks so any finish will also
> crack and allow moisture, swelling ­ further deteriorating the finish. You
> can¹t guarantee a finish unless its renewed.
> 
>  
> 
> Things I have had success with on untreated wood
> 
> -          Torching wood (literally burning it with a torch and brushing off
> the loose fibres and then oiling), very beautiful finish with nice silvery
> greys and recessed grain
> 
> -          Tung oil (good inherent anti-microbial properties) thinned with
> turpentine (less toxic than citrus in my mind) for the first coat and applied
> un-thinned for a second coat (can be mixed with different pigments for some
> added sun protection)
> 
> -          Tung oil with a little zinc sulphate for moister areas (never
> really noticed any improvement ­but possible additional protection at lower
> toxicity for the short term)
> 
> -          Tung oil with beeswax and turpentine (again a beautiful finish with
> possibly some added anti-microbial from the beeswax but its mostly about look)
> 
> -          Recently have done a project with pennofin verde as a packaged
> product as a Œsafe¹ finish that clients can renew easily (as it comes in a
> package). Curious to see how it works over time (just an exterior/interior
> finish with some uv protection)
> 
> Note ­ tung oil needs to be pure raw tung oil
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> I am a fan of newer wood products treated with sodium silicate for extreme
> wood protection (sill plates, etc.) but again I don¹t think wood needs to be
> exposed to extreme conditions or can be detailed appropriately.
> 
> -           
> 
>  
> 
> From: Greenbuilding [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] On
> Behalf Of Brad Guy
> Sent: January-13-13 12:06 PM
> To: Green Building
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] wood vinegar as non-toxic wood treatment
> 
>  
> 
> I have samples of Accoya and tried to use it on a deck, however it was
> impossible to justify the cost. It really does smell like vinegar.
> Aware of the thermally treated methods, which are for new woods. Was hoping
> for something we could apply to salvaged wood, whether soaked or sprayed.
> We could not duplicate a kiln, and although possible to send this wood to one
> of those treaters, I imagine they want a large quantity and probably charge
> large sum, not to mention shipping it there and back.
> As I understand it boric acid is great except for the solubility, and it is
> then the fixing of it that poses the problem..
> The old time method of linseed oil and turpentine seems to come up, neither
> are exactly benign.
> 
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Reclaim + Remake Symposium, April 11-13, 2013
> http://architecture.cua.edu/reclaimremake
> Registration Opens December 14, 2012
> 
> Brad Guy, Assoc. AIA, LEED AP BD+C
> Associate Director
> Center for Building Stewardship
> Assistant Professor
> School of Architecture and Planning
> The Catholic University of America
> Washington, DC 20064
> c. 814-571-8659
> GUY at cua.edu
> 
> 
> From: christian corson <chris at ecocor.us>
> To: Green Building <greenbuilding at lists.bioenergylists.org>
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2013 5:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] wood vinegar as non-toxic wood treatment
> 
>  
> 
> Haven't had a client that wants to afford it yet. There are other  products on
> the residential market that are just as responsible but less coin. Like
> Cambia.
> 
> As nice as Accoya is, it is a boutique veneer reserved unfortunately for
> budgets like the Bullet Center ( not that it was used there) Its hard to
> convince people to spend the money on plyboo and the like.
> 
> Spend the money on the shell, windows, and ventilation then tack on $30,000.00
> siding packages.
> 
> Sure is purdy tough.
> 
> c
> 
>  
> 
> 
> Christian Corson
> EcoCor Design/Build
> ecocor.us <http://ecocor.us/>
> chris at ecocor.us <mailto:chris at ecocor.us>
> 207 930-5088 
>  
> 
> On Thu, Jan 10, 2013 at 5:14 PM, Philip Proefrock <architect at cornellbox.com>
> wrote:
> 
> Are you thinking about things like Accoya treated wood?  They use a
> process called acetylization, which uses acetic acid in a pressure
> treatment application to produce weather-resistant wood; it's not just a
> brush-on process.
> 
> Here's an article with some additional information (and a few images,
> including a wooden road bridge made with this wood):
> 
> http://www.jetsongreen.com/2011/05/accoya-durable-nontoxic-exterior-wood.html
> 
> From what I understand of the process, it needs heat and pressure to
> work; it's not just the presence of vinegar that provides the
> protection.  But this is a pretty water-resistant material once it's
> been treated.  It is used for a variety of exposed purposes.
> 
> Philip Proefrock, AIA
> 
> 
>> > Has anyone on this list ever used wood vinegar or any other kind of
>> > vinegar as a wood preservative/treatment ?
>> > If so, can you indicate the results and where you got it in the USA ?
>> >
> 
> 
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>  
> 
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