[Greenbuilding] Insulating 140 Year Old Wood Framed Brick Facade Building

Sam Ewbank g.l.ewbank at gmail.com
Thu Jun 13 21:01:12 CDT 2013


Thanks RT,
I think removing the lathe and sheething (saving the sheething for
reinstallation or another use) and placing insulation between the studs is
a good idea. If we don't reinstall the sheething we would need to install
some other sheer bracing (the sheething boards vary in width from 8" to 30"
and material including cherry, poplar and butter nut).
What about air sealing? Trying to seal the existing sheething would be
difficult to say the least. Would the gypsum plaster be adequate?

Sam
On Jun 13, 2013 8:37 PM, "RT" <archilogic at yahoo.ca> wrote:
>
> On Thu, 13 Jun 2013 20:12:58 -0400, Sam Ewbank <g.l.ewbank at gmail.com>
wrote:
>
>> I'd worry about the cellulose being packed up against the brick then
getting wet and setting due to moisture migration.
>
>
>> Another would be installing rockwool batts between the studs and then a
>> rigid insulation in place of the sheething.
>
>
>> The owners are planning to eventually install gypsum plaster as the
>> finished wall covering.
>
>
> Roxul (rock wool) Drainboard can be used in what is typically the one
inch air space behind brick veneers.
>
> Oftentimes mortar droppings clog the air space rendering it ineffective
at its intended task so the installation of Roxul in that space eliminates
that possibility while still allowing drainage to take place. (WatJohn did
a paper on the topic when he was still a student IIRC).
>
> If removing the wood lath and plank sheathing is an option, then
installing Roxul batts would be a very good option, I think ... especially
if the planks can be salvaged.
>
> --
> === * ===
> Rob Tom                                 AOD257
> Kanata, Ontario, Canada
>
> < A r c h i L o g i c  at  Y a h o o  dot  c a  >
> (manually winnow the chaff from my edress if you hit "reply")
>
>
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