[Greenbuilding] Redwoods

[Clarke Olsen]

I used a product called Deck Master (I think it was; years have passed..) which is a a galv. steel profile that
sat on the edge of a joist, separating the deck from the support. the decking was then screwed from underneath,
which eliminated both the need to pre-drill (my deck is locust), and the exposure of fasteners, with the accompanying 
splitting & rot.
Separating wood members with anything is a step toward longevity.
Clarke Olsen
clarkeolsendesign.com
373 route 203
Spencertown, NY 12165 
USA
518-392-4640
colsen at taconic.net




On Feb 18, 2014, at 2:08 PM, Benjamin Pratt <benjamin.g.pratt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Speaking of redwood, you all may want to check out this film. 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcEto_Q8MlY
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 1:03 PM, Sacie Lambertson <sacie.lambertson at gmail.com> wrote:
> Re the question of preservation of new deck, in our part of the world you never put gravel at the base of a post.  Our ground is primarily clay which means water that is collected at the base sits there.  Much better to put the post in the soil alone.
> 
> Moreover, the parts underneath, where the wood makes contact with other wood needs to be protected or it simply won't last.
> 
> So it depends, no one solution will work for everyone.  Use affordable wood that is resistant to water and the elements; for us here in Kansas the best choice is Cypress.  Redwood and Cedar cost too much.  We use Hedge (Osage Orange) for the posts; these will last far longer than any of us live.   I would build a house on Hedge posts.  We use star-headed, self driving torx screws for putting it all together.
> 
> Were we in the East we might use Black Locust for the posts.
> 
> Sacie
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 12:38 PM, Reuben Deumling <9watts at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 8:47 AM, John Salmen <terrain at shaw.ca> wrote:
> I’m still convinced the best treatment for exterior wood is no treatment - considering that untreated wood degrades from atmosphere at most about ¼” per century – and the natural grey is nice.
> 
> 
> That has been my approach to date. But I ask because upon closer inspection I'm finding parts of porches built by me (15-25 years ago) out of Douglas fir which evidence some (serious) rot in places. Not bugs, just disintegration initiated by moisture trapped in cracks. I'm not concerned with surfaces that are exposed to sunlight, but the darker places. 
> 
>  
> 
> Next on the list is treatments that oxidize the surface uniformly and ‘naturally’. Off the shelf products include Lifetime Wood Treatment. 
> 
> I'll look into this. Thanks. 
> 
>  
> 
> Make sure there is a good air path to all surfaces
> 
> I find that this doesn't work in all situations, desirable and sensible though it sounds. 
> 
> and good separation from soil (use gravel where possible as a base)
> 
> 
> Yes. Done.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: Greenbuilding [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] On Behalf Of Reuben Deumling
> Sent: February-17-14 8:04 AM
> To: Greenbuilding
> Subject: [Greenbuilding] protecting outdoor wooden structure from future decay (or at least delaying it)
> 
>  
> 
> I'm in the process of building a large outdoor structure (porch, timber frame bridge, stairs, etc.) out of Douglas fir we milled ourselves. The decking is cedar which I'm not worried about, but the rest I'm realizing could probably benefit from some attempt at prolonging its useful life. I despise pressure treated wood, and am not interested in noxious chemicals. Are there any other methods? 
> 
> Thanks very much.
> 
> 
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> -- 
> 
> 
> b e n j a m i n p r a t t
>  
> professor art+design
> the university of wisconsin stout
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