[Greenbuilding] Redwoods
Lynelle A. Hamilton
lynelle at kos.net
Tue Feb 18 20:43:05 CST 2014
I used these and loved them. Only complaint was that they were shiny
and produced some glare if the sun hits them right.
Lynelle
On 2/18/2014 2:39 PM, Clarke Olsen wrote:
> I used a product called Deck Master (I think it was; years have
> passed..) which is a a galv. steel profile that
> sat on the edge of a joist, separating the deck from the support. the
> decking was then screwed from underneath,
> which eliminated both the need to pre-drill (my deck is locust), and
> the exposure of fasteners, with the accompanying
> splitting & rot.
> Separating wood members with anything is a step toward longevity.
> Clarke Olsen
> clarkeolsendesign.com <http://clarkeolsendesign.com>
> 373 route 203
> Spencertown, NY 12165
> USA
> 518-392-4640
> colsen at taconic.net
>
>
>
>
> On Feb 18, 2014, at 2:08 PM, Benjamin Pratt
> <benjamin.g.pratt at gmail.com <mailto:benjamin.g.pratt at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>> Speaking of redwood, you all may want to check out this film.
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcEto_Q8MlY
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 1:03 PM, Sacie Lambertson
>> <sacie.lambertson at gmail.com <mailto:sacie.lambertson at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Re the question of preservation of new deck, in our part of the
>> world you _never_ put gravel at the base of a post. Our ground
>> is primarily clay which means water that is collected at the base
>> sits there. Much better to put the post in the soil alone.
>>
>> Moreover, the parts underneath, where the wood makes contact with
>> other wood needs to be protected or it simply won't last.
>>
>> So it depends, no one solution will work for everyone. Use
>> affordable wood that is resistant to water and the elements; for
>> us here in Kansas the best choice is Cypress. Redwood and Cedar
>> cost too much. We use Hedge (Osage Orange) for the posts; these
>> will last far longer than any of us live. I would build a house
>> on Hedge posts. We use star-headed, self driving torx screws for
>> putting it all together.
>>
>> Were we in the East we might use Black Locust for the posts.
>>
>> Sacie
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 12:38 PM, Reuben Deumling
>> <9watts at gmail.com <mailto:9watts at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 8:47 AM, John Salmen <terrain at shaw.ca
>> <mailto:terrain at shaw.ca>> wrote:
>>
>> I'm still convinced the best treatment for exterior wood
>> is no treatment - considering that untreated wood
>> degrades from atmosphere at most about ¼" per century --
>> and the natural grey is nice.
>>
>>
>> That has been my approach to date. But I ask because upon
>> closer inspection I'm finding parts of porches built by me
>> (15-25 years ago) out of Douglas fir which evidence some
>> (serious) rot in places. Not bugs, just disintegration
>> initiated by moisture trapped in cracks. I'm not concerned
>> with surfaces that are exposed to sunlight, but the darker
>> places.
>>
>> Next on the list is treatments that oxidize the surface
>> uniformly and 'naturally'. Off the shelf products include
>> Lifetime Wood Treatment.
>>
>> I'll look into this. Thanks.
>>
>>
>> Make sure there is a good air path to all surfaces
>>
>>
>> I find that this doesn't work in all situations, desirable
>> and sensible though it sounds.
>>
>> and good separation from soil (use gravel where possible
>> as a base)
>>
>>
>> Yes. Done.
>>
>> *From:*Greenbuilding
>> [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org
>> <mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org>]
>> *On Behalf Of *Reuben Deumling
>> *Sent:* February-17-14 8:04 AM
>> *To:* Greenbuilding
>> *Subject:* [Greenbuilding] protecting outdoor wooden
>> structure from future decay (or at least delaying it)
>>
>> I'm in the process of building a large outdoor structure
>> (porch, timber frame bridge, stairs, etc.) out of Douglas
>> fir we milled ourselves. The decking is cedar which I'm
>> not worried about, but the rest I'm realizing could
>> probably benefit from some attempt at prolonging its
>> useful life. I despise pressure treated wood, and am not
>> interested in noxious chemicals. Are there any other
>> methods?
>>
>> Thanks very much.
>>
>>
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>>
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>>
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>> b e n j a m i n p r a t t
>>
>> professor art+design
>> the university of wisconsin stout
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>
>
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