[Stoves] Stoves Digest, Vol 23, Issue 18
David Osborne
celsius4u at hotmail.com
Sat Jul 21 17:45:14 CDT 2012
Hi Paul,
So now that you have seen the Jompy in kenya. How does it compliment clean burning cookstoves?
David Osborne,
Technical Director
00441292318194 office Uk
00447801239525 mobile
On 21 Jul 2012, at 20:00, stoves-request at lists.bioenergylists.org wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Using TLUD method for Re: [biochar] Re: Biochar from wood
> products? (Paul Anderson)
> 2. Servals natural draft wood stove (rajan_jiby at dataone.in)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 20:01:24 -0500
> From: Paul Anderson <psanders at ilstu.edu>
> To: biochar at yahoogroups.com
> Cc: Todd <toddt58 at yahoo.com>, Hugh McLaughlin
> <hsmclaughlin at verizon.net>, Discussion of biomass cooking stoves
> <stoves at lists.bioenergylists.org>
> Subject: [Stoves] Using TLUD method for Re: [biochar] Re: Biochar from
> wood products?
> Message-ID: <5009FF64.3010104 at ilstu.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>
> Dear Wayne, Todd, and others,
>
> I and others are very interested in the type of TLUD you are using to
> make biochar. There are now many variations, so just saying "TLUD" does
> not tell more than the basic pyrolytic process that you are using.
>
> Please send info on what you are doing. Better yet, can you bring your
> device to any of the hands-on venues across America this summer about
> biochar production. These multi-day gatherings are highly
> PRACTICAL. I am at all of them, plus Berlin on 10 -15 Sept and
> Honduras in late Sept. We want to learn from you while you learn from
> others who are solving the issues that we all confront.
>
> 1. California: USBI Sonoma state start 29 July
>
> 2. Massachusetts: CHAB camp at Belchertown start 6 August
> see http://www.smallfarm.org/
>
> 3. Tennessee: Stove and Biochar camp at The Farm start 1 Sept
>
> 4. Illinois: At my home and at Chip Energy at any time that I am
> passing through.
>
> Info about all is at www.drtlud.com (Undergoing an admin
> revision, so be patient if it does not come up.)
>
> I hope to meet you soon,
>
> Dr TLUD
>
> Paul S. Anderson, PhD aka "Dr TLUD"
> Email: psanders at ilstu.edu Skype: paultlud Phone: +1-309-452-7072
> Website: www.drtlud.com
>
> On 7/20/2012 3:08 PM, Todd wrote:
>>
>> My purpose is actually multi-faceted. I want to use everything at my
>> disposal for heat and to create bio char for a soil amendment.
>>
>> Part of my desire is waste minimization. I want to avoid high tipping
>> fees at the local landfill. I also detest the idea of burying anything
>> that has a value elsewhere through recycling or btu recovery.
>>
>> Also, I run my small business off the grid completely on renewable
>> energy. I'd like to capture the heat from the TLUD during the winter
>> while also minimizing what otherwise would be waste biomass.
>>
>> But, in doing all this workshop R&D, I don't want to inadvertently
>> create something hazardous. In this case, I want to make sure any
>> chemicals are eliminated through the gasification process.
>>
>> I bought a 16hp chipper/shredder for this type research. It has a side
>> chute for limbs and flail type arms for branches. It creates a dirty
>> chip, not good for gasification for engine fuel use.
>>
>> How important is moisture content in gasification for biochar/heat
>> production?
>>
>> --- In biochar at yahoogroups.com <mailto:biochar%40yahoogroups.com>,
>> "Teel, Wayne Stephen - teelws" <teelws at ...> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Todd,
>>>
>>> I have made bio dhal out of a number of kinds of waste woody
>> biomass, including plywood,particle board, miscanthus and switch
>> grasses, juniper branched, and more. they all work fine. In my limited
>> experience with TLUD systems the most important things are uniform
>> particle size for even burns and dry material. You are on the right track.
>>>
>>> Wayne
>>>
>>> Wayne S. Teel
>>> E-mail: teelws at ...
>>> ________________________________________
>>> From: biochar at yahoogroups.com <mailto:biochar%40yahoogroups.com>
>> [biochar at yahoogroups.com <mailto:biochar%40yahoogroups.com>] on behalf
>> of Todd [toddt58 at ...]
>>> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 10:37 AM
>>> To: biochar at yahoogroups.com <mailto:biochar%40yahoogroups.com>
>>> Subject: [biochar] Biochar from wood products?
>>>
>>> I've been involved in gasification as fuel for an engine for a few
>> years and now want to learn more about biochar. I am building a TLUD.
>>>
>>> I have some OSB and particleboard scrap I need to get rid of. Can I
>> use this material as feedstock for making biochar? It stands to reason
>> that any binders or chemicals used in the manufacturing of these wood
>> products would be eliminated in the temperatures of the process.
>>>
>>> But, I don't want to use this char as a soil amendment if it is
>> hazardous in any way. By the way, none of this is "treated" wood such
>> as would be used on a deck or foundation.
>>>
>>
>> __._,_.___
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2012 09:05:38 +0530
> From: rajan_jiby at dataone.in
> To: stoves at lists.bioenergylists.org
> Subject: [Stoves] Servals natural draft wood stove
> Message-ID: <15CA07B590BD4FCAA93FF6079F98EE89 at user>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
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>
> Dear Crispin,
>
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 10:43:01 -0400
>> From: "Crispin Pemberton-Pigott" <crispinpigott at gmail.com>
>> To: "'Discussion of biomass cooking stoves'"
>> <stoves at lists.bioenergylists.org>
>> Cc: 'Sujatha Srini' <sujatha.srini at gmail.com>, 'mukundan'
>> <mukundanpa at gmail.com>, 'vijayaganapathi' <vijayaganapathi1 at gmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Stoves] Servals natural draft wood stove
>> Message-ID: <059f01cd6685$f7769640$e663c2c0$@gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>>
>> Dear Rajan
>>
>>
>>> The fuel-wood stand is height-adjustable. One of the purposes here is to
>> reduce/regulate the excess air - also encouraging air-flow at the bottom
>> of the stand.
>>
>> It is very likely, looking at het stove, that the excess air is
>> surprisingly
>> high. I understand your point that the primary/secondary air split can be
>> modified by the fuel shelf level (I am glad to see that it is a sheet of
>> steel, not a ladder-type support). However if you were to put a combustion
>> analyser on the gases coming out, I am really sure you would find that the
>> quantity of unneeded air passing through is much more than you need. If
>> you
>> use a couple of damp rags you can experiment with limiting the air
>> entering
>> above and below. At some point, even without instrumentation, it becomes
>> obvious that there is more smoke, not less. That is too little air. A
>> little
>> bit more and you will notice no smoke (or very little) and a much improved
>> time-to-boil.
>
> At 2 KW level it is low-smoke. Around 2.5 KW, the smoke level increases.
>
> The opening at the "flame concentrator" decides the power level.
>
> The average requirement of fire-power ( used by people ) seems to be in the
> range of around 1 to 1.5 KW. So we made a 2 KW stove.
>
> The "sheet metal support" design was purposely brought in so that the
> combustion mostly takes place in the grate area and not earlier. It guides
> the air below towards bottom of the grate.
>
>>
>>> The opening at the "flame concentrator" ( just below the vessel support )
>> is also tuned for 2 KW fire-power.
>>
>> It is an off-the-shelf part?
>
> The part is from market. The opening has to be decided/made by us.
>
>>
>>> I have been toying with the idea of a drop plate also. But I am worried
>> whether the user will find it convenient.
>>
>> Toy with it and watch the performance. There are various ways to make it
>> convenient.
>>
>>
>>> The stove boils 3 kgs water in 18 minutes using around 200 grams of
>> firewood ( ambient temperature around 33 C ).
>>
>> That is roughly a 25% efficiency. Now I am really sure you have too much
>> air. Try blocking the lower air perhaps 80-90% and the upper air perhaps
>> 75%
>> (air going in with the fuel). Check the temperature of the gases as they
>> emerge between the pot and the stove body. Do not be surprised if the
>> temperature goes up. That does not mean the efficiency went down, not at
>> all. If the airflow is less, the temperature may go up and the efficiency
>> too because the volume of gases at that temp is much lower. Losses are a
>> combination of the two + unburned CO.
>
> The fuelwood we used is casuarina. The moisture content of the wood will be
> around 20 % - when used. Wood available in the market contains much more
> moisture. We do a litle bit of sun-drying before use.
>
> We do not do too much of drying - just because this is what people are
> going to use. Finally the stove has to serve the people.
>
>>
>>> The dry weight of the stove is around 7 kgs.
>>
>> That is surprisingly high. What is inside that it weighs so much?
>
> Some simple low-cost insulation - which we find very effective. This also
> makes the stove quite sturdy.
>
>>
>>
>
> Another area of great worry is that people sometimes stuff the fuel-window
> with fuelwood. This is habit probably picked up from using a "three stone
> fire". In such a case, smoke is the result.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rajan
>
>
>
>
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> End of Stoves Digest, Vol 23, Issue 18
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