[Stoves] Sequestering carbon -

[Paul Anderson]

About binders in briquettes.

Has anyone tried using the residual (ash plus non-combusted binder that 
might be clay) that is in a regular charcoal griller that has burned 
charcoal briquettes?   Might work.

Paul

Doc  /  Dr TLUD  /  Prof. Paul S. Anderson, PhD
Email:  psanders at ilstu.edu
Skype: paultlud      Phone: +1-309-452-7072
Website:  www.drtlud.com

On 5/6/2015 3:32 PM, Crispin Pemberton-Pigott wrote:
> Dear Rolf
>
> How about making the clay mix weaker and weaker until it lights well, then
> see how strong it is.
>
> Then if it is too weak, go back a bit and try to light it.  If it lights OK,
> add a little more. This idea is to find out how much you have to add before
> the ignition is an unpleasant experience.
>
> If it turns out it is not possible to get a strong enough mix using clay
> only, try adding something as well, such as waste green bananas, maybe
> cooked, maybe mushed up.
>
> An alternative is to add a coating around the outside only that lights
> easily.
>
> And lastly, there is in a source of clay some very hard pieces (really
> small) that act like sand but are actually clay. You want that materials
> liquefied.  The solution is to soak them for a while before mixing the clay.
> You might even cook it - ask experts. When the clay is put into a mixer, for
> example, it may have to sit for a long time to get water into the very
> compressed, dried small pieces. If the clay is completely liquefied before
> mixing, what you are doing already may work much better with less clay and
> still be strong in the end, assuming that some of the material isn't really
> helping you, but could.
>
> Clay is often mixed in a pug mill and then stored for a long time
> specifically to deal with this issue. Months. It is kept covered in plastic.
> Later it is put through again to spread the ingredients around the whole
> body (because clay is not necessarily homogeneous).
>
> There was a guy making strong thin panels using a mixer and he found that
> rust running the machine a lot longer made the panels stronger with no
> change in the mix at all - just more time being spread around.
>
> I am very interested to hear of anything that works better. I know of a
> group in South Africa that was making coal-dung briquettes and coal-clay
> ones too, with about 25% clay. The holey coal briquettes made in Ulaanbaatar
> were 1/3 clay and they used a special short holey ignition briquette to
> light the first one. It is a TLUD stove with two or three (two models)
> columns of briquettes in a single combustion chamber. It took a long time to
> burn down about two feet.  Very low PM.
>
> Regards
> Crispin
>
>
> thanks to crispin and all,
>
> yes, i have tried clay before and IT WORKS FINE BUT THESE BRIQUETTES ARE
> REALLY HARD TO LIGHT!
>
> I found it takes a well lit fire below or around them to get to the point
> where the clay does not absorb all the energy.
> Once burning, they work well but they give a lot of ash, true.
>
> I live on an island in the Mediterranean, very touristic and with a high
> demand for good bbq charcoal.
> So coal is out, not being available anyway.
> Pity the clay as a binder is not very practical, either. It is cheap and
> works well as such.
>
> I have tried ground,soaked and fermented straw. Not much good unless in high
> quantities but than it gives smoke.
>
> Must try hay, someone said it works far better.
>
> More to come!
>
> Rolf
>
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