[Stoves] Sequestering carbon -

Frank Shields franke at cruzio.com
Thu May 7 11:16:13 MDT 2015


Binders in Briquettes

Fresh biomass has a lot of lipids (solvent extractions) and sugars (water extractions) that can be first removed and concentrated before microbes quickly biodegrade them. Perhaps this glue of oils and sugars concentrated on sawdust or clay could be used as the binder. Must be extracted from growing biomass because once cut it is quickly biodegraded. First water extraction by squeezing or pressing. Then forced air dried at ~ 60c then solvent extraction of the dry material. These solutions are mixed together(?) and concentrated by boiling off the excess. When close to dry add a binder (sawdust or clay?) and further evaporate until a paste is made. The biomass after extracted can then be used as planned to make the briquettes. 

Not sure if there is enough binder material can be extracted to use all the dry biomass in making the briquette. May end up with excess dry biomass. 

Might work.




Frank Shields
franke at cruzio.com


> On May 7, 2015, at 8:43 AM, Paul Anderson <psanders at ilstu.edu> wrote:
> 
> About binders in briquettes.
> 
> Has anyone tried using the residual (ash plus non-combusted binder that might be clay) that is in a regular charcoal griller that has burned charcoal briquettes?   Might work.
> 
> Paul
> 
> Doc  /  Dr TLUD  /  Prof. Paul S. Anderson, PhD
> Email:  psanders at ilstu.edu
> Skype: paultlud      Phone: +1-309-452-7072
> Website:  www.drtlud.com
> 
> On 5/6/2015 3:32 PM, Crispin Pemberton-Pigott wrote:
>> Dear Rolf
>> 
>> How about making the clay mix weaker and weaker until it lights well, then
>> see how strong it is.
>> 
>> Then if it is too weak, go back a bit and try to light it.  If it lights OK,
>> add a little more. This idea is to find out how much you have to add before
>> the ignition is an unpleasant experience.
>> 
>> If it turns out it is not possible to get a strong enough mix using clay
>> only, try adding something as well, such as waste green bananas, maybe
>> cooked, maybe mushed up.
>> 
>> An alternative is to add a coating around the outside only that lights
>> easily.
>> 
>> And lastly, there is in a source of clay some very hard pieces (really
>> small) that act like sand but are actually clay. You want that materials
>> liquefied.  The solution is to soak them for a while before mixing the clay.
>> You might even cook it - ask experts. When the clay is put into a mixer, for
>> example, it may have to sit for a long time to get water into the very
>> compressed, dried small pieces. If the clay is completely liquefied before
>> mixing, what you are doing already may work much better with less clay and
>> still be strong in the end, assuming that some of the material isn't really
>> helping you, but could.
>> 
>> Clay is often mixed in a pug mill and then stored for a long time
>> specifically to deal with this issue. Months. It is kept covered in plastic.
>> Later it is put through again to spread the ingredients around the whole
>> body (because clay is not necessarily homogeneous).
>> 
>> There was a guy making strong thin panels using a mixer and he found that
>> rust running the machine a lot longer made the panels stronger with no
>> change in the mix at all - just more time being spread around.
>> 
>> I am very interested to hear of anything that works better. I know of a
>> group in South Africa that was making coal-dung briquettes and coal-clay
>> ones too, with about 25% clay. The holey coal briquettes made in Ulaanbaatar
>> were 1/3 clay and they used a special short holey ignition briquette to
>> light the first one. It is a TLUD stove with two or three (two models)
>> columns of briquettes in a single combustion chamber. It took a long time to
>> burn down about two feet.  Very low PM.
>> 
>> Regards
>> Crispin
>> 
>> 
>> thanks to crispin and all,
>> 
>> yes, i have tried clay before and IT WORKS FINE BUT THESE BRIQUETTES ARE
>> REALLY HARD TO LIGHT!
>> 
>> I found it takes a well lit fire below or around them to get to the point
>> where the clay does not absorb all the energy.
>> Once burning, they work well but they give a lot of ash, true.
>> 
>> I live on an island in the Mediterranean, very touristic and with a high
>> demand for good bbq charcoal.
>> So coal is out, not being available anyway.
>> Pity the clay as a binder is not very practical, either. It is cheap and
>> works well as such.
>> 
>> I have tried ground,soaked and fermented straw. Not much good unless in high
>> quantities but than it gives smoke.
>> 
>> Must try hay, someone said it works far better.
>> 
>> More to come!
>> 
>> Rolf
>> 
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