[Stoves] New video from Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan stove pilots

[Adrian Padt]

[image: Inline images 2][image: Inline images 1]
Hi Cecil, Yes and I have a heater attachment for the stove that works
really well. I suggest that you use the pellet stove. so you'll get around
2 hrs at a time? or a longer version that lasts at least 6hrs? also a photo
of the stove that Christa helped me develop for the 100lt pot


On 28 July 2017 at 05:12, Crispin Pemberton-Pigott <
crispinpigott at outlook.com> wrote:

> Dear Cecil
>
>
>
> Please remove the addresses of your friends from messages to the Stove
> list. Perhaps you didn’t see that taking place.
>
>
>
> Here is my reply:
>
> >Please design me a small 2 pot front loading cooking and heating stove
> with a 4 hour fire box that has good primary air flow and heated secondary
> air (maybe with a flame tube) with a deep 24 hour  interior ash tray that
> is easy to slide out and empty ....that has a separate  6 inch vertical
> chimney. It should be easily convertable from burning split wattle wood to
> coal and/or wood pellets using grates that can be slide into the stove
> through the front door. Maybe it needs to be big enough to accommodate thin
> firebricks in the combustion chamber.
>
> The only thing I will require you to change on your spec is the 6”
> chimney, That is far too large. Almost every stove I see has a chimney that
> is too large in diameter. You can use a 130-140mm diameter chimney, max.
> This should be located before you make the chimney connector. Find out if
> there is a 133 or 135 or 140 mm tube available.
>
> Next, your fuel requirements can be met and the space you want to heat is…?
>
> Let’s assume it is not larger than 50 sq m. At least the warmest part of
> the room. The chimney can go straight up because the stove I am connecting
> you to is already over 80% efficiency in terms of space heating so don’t
> put on a wandering chimney.
>
> Point your welder to
>
> http://www.newdawnengineering.com/website/library/Stoves/
> Kyrgyzstan/KG%20Model2.5/
>
> and download the files there. You don’t have to download the .dwg or .tcw
> because you don’[t have a programme that can open them. All the drawings
> are individually poste as PDF’s.
>
> I have been updating a couple of things for the cast iron top but you will
> use a steel sheet. I recommend you use 4mm or 5mm for the top surfaces
> (there are two), not the default 3mm.  The rest can be 3mm. For bricks you
> will get some refractory bricks from anywhere, but probably someone
> specialised. Not sure you will have to ask around. They are made in the
> Vanderbijl Park area or imported. You can ask for SK32’s or SK34’s which
> are probably available for lining boilers. If all that fails, use 75mm
> thick face bricks or 50mm thick pavers. It seems RSA has no 65mm bricks,
> not that I Could find for “Lu” Sumbane at Potch U.
>
> In theory the stove can be made using only a welding machine and an angle
> grinder. You need two hinges for the door.
>
> Operation:
>
> The stove is lit from the far end, next to the flame tube entrance. Fuel
> is always pushed to the back before loading more, and the fire is always
> moving towards the air entrance. You could ask Adrian Padt to build it for
> you because he has everything and could make shortcuts like bending some
> parts.
>
> One caution on fabrication is to make sure that the two sets of grate
> holders by the door are far enough away from the wall to get the brick
> behind. As the design is for 65mm bricks, not 75, you might have to cut the
> bricks at that point, and make the grate narrower. As it is, the grate will
> be about 10mm too wide to fit between the bricks. Optionally you can widen
> the body by 20mm all over to get the 75mm bricks into the side, standing as
> they do, along the walls.
>
> You should be able to easily get a 4 hour burn as the inside is quite
> large.
>
> Cooking:
>
> You can cook on the large hole (you might want to make it smaller that the
> drawing because local pots are in the 254mm dia max for regular families.
> The small hole by the door is only useful for warming water later in the
> fire. It is really there as an observation port and loading coal if you use
> if that way (with the grate inverted and elevated). It will burn for more
> than 10 hrs with coal. The upper deck does not have a hole, only a cooking
> surface. There are wide reports that it cooks fine up there, heated by the
> flame from the flame tube. They consider it a two-pot cooking stove, not
> just a water warmer.
>
> It will burn all biomass, dung to cotton stalks and junky things from
> wattle trees.
>
> With the bricks in, it is really heavy. As they are easily removed, place
> it and then add the +50 kg bricks. You will be surprised as how effective
> it is at cooking. You might have to open a restaurant.
>
> Adrian’s contact you have right?
>
> Good luck. A welder should be able to make it in a day.
>
> Crispin
>
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