[Greenbuilding] Natura Paint - Any thoughts

[Sam Ewbank]

Thanks John
I think I have just the wall to try out your recipe on. I am sure at least
one of the dogs will also sample mixture at some point also. Will let you
know how it turns out.
As for the detergent component, I am picturing a generic laundry detergent
without any of those colorful "overachieving resource depleting" particles
but also not using Borax either.
Is this correct?
Thanks again for your time

Sam



On Mon, Jan 31, 2011 at 9:58 PM, JOHN SALMEN <terrain at shaw.ca> wrote:

>  That is too bad – I’ve looked through quite a few msds sheets on primers
> and the synko was the only one I found. Have used it to minimize top coats
> of earthen mixes but here is a basic home recipe that can work on bare
> drywall for a simple milk paint that works with better coverage than most
> commercial milk paint recipes. I first developed it when my son wanted to
> help paint (at about 2) so I wanted something that was friendly and that my
> dog could eat. He is now 15 and the basic paint (or a variant) has been used
> in numerous homes since by demand (I’m not in the paint business and it has
> been a pain). It has to be applied by brush and has a relatively coarse
> texture very similar to earthen clay finishes. I have a more sophisticated
> recipe at this point that uses casein but this amounts to the same thing
> with ingredients that are readily available.
>
>
>
> Skim milk powder          -12 cups
>
> calcium carbonate (basic chalk)  -6 cups
>
> lime                  -6 cups
>
> kaolin (clay)                   -5 cups
>
> detergent (dry – non additive laundry type)            -1 cup
>
> colourant (davis concrete pigments or stucco pigment – try not to exceed ¼
> cup)
>
>
>
> 7 cups water.
>
>
>
>
>
> Mix the ingredients dry as accurately as possible and mix well (important)
> and then add about ¾ of the liquid mixing with a paint mixer on a drill or
> even a hand blender. Will be quite thick but you then have to let it sit
> (hour or so) for the clay to slake a little (absorb liquid) and then mix
> some more and add the remaining liquid (add more liquid if needed). It needs
> to be a relatively thick mix (pea soup- gelatinous type of thing) to brush
> effectively. The liquid mix can be kept for a few days (refrigerated) if it
> smells sour discard. This is time consuming to paint as the brushing needs
> to be done in a very ‘craftspersonlike’ manner to get good results. Use a
> cheap bristle (stain) brush.
>
>
>
> Can get the basic clay from potters supply. Lime and calcium carbonate from
> agricultural supply. Large bags but inexpensive – works out to a few dollars
> per gallon. Can substitute sodium silicate (waterglass) for a portion of the
> water if you can get that and it creates a slightly harder water resistant
> finish. Paint can be temperamental i.e. if the wall temperature is too high
> (around light bulbs and heaters) the reaction can result in flaking. Other
> than that it results in a very hard finish. Will water spot if sprayed but
> generally can be wiped for most marks)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *JOHN SALMEN ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN*
>
> *4465 UPHILL RD**,. DUNCAN, B.C.  CANADA, V9L 6M7*
>
> *PH 250 748 7672 FAX 250 748 7612 CELL 250 246 8541*
>
> *terrain at shaw.ca***
>
>
>  ------------------------------
>
> *From:* greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org [mailto:
> greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] *On Behalf Of *Sam Ewbank
> *Sent:* January 31, 2011 5:50 PM
>
> *To:* Green Building
> *Subject:* Re: [Greenbuilding] Natura Paint - Any thoughts
>
>
>
> John
>
> To bad you can't get Synko T.I.P.S. in the USA.   The closest USG has is
> their "First Coat" primer. With ethylene glycol, petroleum distillates and
> voc <95g/l.
>
> I had not heard of using cement pigments before.  Are you using iron oxide?
> Do you mix the color yourself? Are certain paints better to use such as milk
> paint?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Sam
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 30, 2011 at 4:29 PM, JOHN SALMEN <terrain at shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> I don't know - I don't really have experience using them. Have tended to
> use
> milk/clay or mineral finishes. One paint I do specify as a base primer over
> drywall is more of a plaster that has incredible coverage that is Synko
> T.I.P.S. Ingredients are water titanium dioxide/vinyl acrylic
> copolymer/limestone/kaolin(clay)/diatomaceious earth/crystalline silic. It
> is classed as low voc (>25g/l). Only available in 5 gallon containers for
> about 90 (can also be tinted - I use cement pigments)
>
>
> JOHN SALMEN ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN
> 4465 UPHILL RD,. DUNCAN, B.C.  CANADA, V9L 6M7
> PH 250 748 7672 FAX 250 748 7612 CELL 250 246 8541
> terrain at shaw.ca
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org
>
> [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] On Behalf Of
> Lynelle
> Hamilton
> Sent: January 30, 2011 1:10 PM
> To: Green Building
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Natura Paint - Any thoughts
>
> Thanks, John! What paint (Non-voc) give the best coverage/durability?
> Any thoughts?
>
> Lynelle
>
> On 30/01/2011 4:04 PM, JOHN SALMEN wrote:
> >
> > The home hardware 'natura' is made for them by a Canadian plant called
> > 'beauti-tone' and is listed as a non voc. As to whether individual
> > stores use a non-voc colourant for mixing you would have to enquire.
> > Home depot has a paint made called 'freshaire which supposedly uses
> > non-voc tints (you would need to ensure the store is actually using
> > those).
> >
> > _JOHN SALMEN ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN_
> >
> > /4465 UPHILL RD//,. DUNCAN, B.C. CANADA, V9L 6M7/
> >
> > /PH 250 748 7672 FAX 250 748 7612 CELL 250 246 8541/
> >
> > /terrain at shaw.ca/// <http://terrain@shaw.ca/>
> >
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.bioenergylists.org/pipermail/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org/attachments/20110131/fd49f5ba/attachment.html>