[Greenbuilding] Reducing mold

[JOHN SALMEN]

Use a similar mix in wood boat work and stabilizing spaulting. BoraCare is
basically a mix of ethylene glycol, borax and boric acid (or at least that
is the recipe I have used). The borates can affect glue joints so have also
used straight glycol (which is pretty common in wood boat maintenance). 

The glycol opens pores in the wood allowing it to penetrate deeply (carrying
the borates in as well). The borates react with water to form a hydrogen
peroxide making it affective as a fungicide. It will leach out and it is a
salt so can precipitate and interfere with finishes. Urethane films are
waterproof except where they crack and blister (especially at joints which
seem to always blacken or whiten on urethane covered windows)- so water
penetration gets concentrated. I prefer tung oil which is an antimicrobial
but also penetrates deeply into the wood 

I designed a house that was built in the winter here (bad idea). I was
concerned about residual moisture and mildew on wetted framing despite
dehumidifiers, etc. Found a relatively amazing antimicrobial product here
called 'Benefect' which is a botanical disinfectant approved as a broad
spectrum hospital disinfectant. Non corrosive and basically zero toxicity so
I've included it as a spec. for framing that bottom plates get sprayed.

JOHN SALMEN ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN
4465 UPHILL RD,. DUNCAN, B.C.  CANADA, V9L 6M7
PH 250 748 7672 FAX 250 748 7612 CELL 250 246 8541
terrain at shaw.ca


-----Original Message-----
From: greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org
[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] On Behalf Of Bob
Klahn
Sent: November 8, 2010 5:41 AM
To: greenbuilding at lists.bioenergylists.org
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Reducing mold

  Sacie,

For the new wood that's moldy, you can try a water solution of sodium 
octoborate (trade named BoraCare).  It soaks into the wood and is a mold 
inhibitor - not a mildicide.  Pest control companies use it since it 
also deters termites.  Since it is water borne, it can leach out if the 
wood is later saturated, but is otherwise stable.

Urethane should exclude new moisture, just be sure the wood is dry all 
the way through (long moisture probe) before applying BoraCare and urethane.

Perhaps best is the very low toxicity.  On the other hand it is pricey.

Bob Klahn

On 11/7/2010 11:24 PM, Sacie Lambertson wrote:
>
>
>
> As for simply wiping, well I spent a lot of today trying to 'clean' 
> some new wood on a new project of the black mildew/mold/fungus that is 
> spreading.  Wiping didn't do it, 120 grit sanding didn't do it, clorox 
> didn't, nor did vinegar.  Tomorrow I'll try something else.  Want to 
> get it clean again then will tackle the job with a urethane to keep 
> the black stuff from reappearing.
>