[Greenbuilding] MDF vs Particleboard vs Whatever

Chris Koehn chris at koehn.com
Sun Oct 24 16:36:42 CDT 2010


I'll second the recommendation for using pine boards for cabinets, provided your configuration and availability are non-issues. Look for well-sawn, well-dried boards. Edge glue with biscuits for wider panels and for stability.
I prefer plywood for cases, as I find it to be stronger than MDF or particleboard, hold fasteners well, and it's less dusty to work than MDF for sure. 
I recently tried to get 3 different cabinet makers to quote a project with plywood and was turned down; common complaint was that they're all tooled up for particleboard and couldn't switch (at the commercial level different blades are used).
That said, I am impressed with some of the fittings available now for work in particleboard. Say what you will about Ikea their knock-down hardware rocks.

I once built counters for a home from recycled bowling alley. All tight, VG yellow pine (often available in maple as well), very high quality, 2 1/2" thick as I recall. The lanes I got (salvaged after a fire, couple bucks a running foot) were t&g and heavily spiked together with Ardox nails, which was a bit of trouble to reconfigure and cut sink holes through. I've heard tell of others line boring and installing threaded rod to keep it snug and flat. I faced all the edges with a contrasting wood (walnut).
Once installed the bowling alley responds well to sanding and finishing with butcher block oil, or a urethane if you want to go that route.
In the same home I used salvaged cabinet doors from the 1930's (replaced by my dad in the 60's with flush plywood and stuffed into the furnace room for 40 years...). These were made of old growth white pine, very well made, solid raised panel. I made cabinets to fit the doors. 
I have a few photos lurking around here somewhere I can post if interested.

Chris Koehn
TimberGuides











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