[Greenbuilding] MDF vs Particleboard vs Whatever

[Kathy Cochran]

I think I found the absolute perfect counter top.  Soapstone.  Not the soft
soapstone that is available locally (too bad.!) because it is too soft, but
architectural grade soapstone, which (unfortunately) comes from Brazil.  I
googled "soapstone remnants" and found a shop in Rocklin (No. Calif) that
had some.  It has the same qualities of marble, such as for rolling out
dough, it does NOT need to be sealed (although you can put mineral oil on
it, if you want to make it shiny, but it isn't necessary.).  Hot pots are no
problem, and so far no scratches.  I have 20" pieces on either side of my
gas stove top, and they are fabulous!  Tile for the backsplash, but I really
like the solid surface for the counter top, because of no grout lines.
Also, NO LABOR to put it in.  Just apply a line of caulking, and put it
down.  

 

Kathy Cochran

San Andreas, CA  95249

 

 

From: greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org
[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] On Behalf Of JOHN
SALMEN
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 9:02 PM
To: 'Chris Koehn'; Greenbuilding at bioenergylists.org
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] MDF vs Particleboard vs Whatever

 

I can third that recommendation. Our millwork shop primarily uses strip
laminated pine or maple (usually 2" strips glued to form panels) for most
cabinetry or drawers and occasionally plywood if additional stability is
needed (full drawer banks, etc.). 

 

Butcher block is a good counter surface for dry areas that can be used well
and refinished as needed. I like tile because it is durable without needing
any finish (other than grout lines). The shop has done a lot of concrete
counters and they are a lot of work and not durable and I am not keen on
doing any more. Stone (granite) is decent but needs a finish unless you are
ok with it degrading naturally. Composites tend to scratch easily (can be
refinished . but people seem a little disappointed over time with the
maintenance). A mixture of surfaces for the purpose is good (nothing like
rolling dough on the right marble).

 

 

JOHN SALMEN ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN

4465 UPHILL RD,. DUNCAN, B.C.  CANADA, V9L 6M7

PH 250 748 7672 FAX 250 748 7612 CELL 250 246 8541

terrain at shaw.ca

 

  _____  

From: greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org
[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] On Behalf Of Chris
Koehn
Sent: October 24, 2010 2:37 PM
To: Greenbuilding at bioenergylists.org
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] MDF vs Particleboard vs Whatever

 

I'll second the recommendation for using pine boards for cabinets, provided
your configuration and availability are non-issues. Look for well-sawn,
well-dried boards. Edge glue with biscuits for wider panels and for
stability.

I prefer plywood for cases, as I find it to be stronger than MDF or
particleboard, hold fasteners well, and it's less dusty to work than MDF for
sure. 

I recently tried to get 3 different cabinet makers to quote a project with
plywood and was turned down; common complaint was that they're all tooled up
for particleboard and couldn't switch (at the commercial level different
blades are used).

That said, I am impressed with some of the fittings available now for work
in particleboard. Say what you will about Ikea their knock-down hardware
rocks.

 

I once built counters for a home from recycled bowling alley. All tight, VG
yellow pine (often available in maple as well), very high quality, 2 1/2"
thick as I recall. The lanes I got (salvaged after a fire, couple bucks a
running foot) were t&g and heavily spiked together with Ardox nails, which
was a bit of trouble to reconfigure and cut sink holes through. I've heard
tell of others line boring and installing threaded rod to keep it snug and
flat. I faced all the edges with a contrasting wood (walnut).

Once installed the bowling alley responds well to sanding and finishing with
butcher block oil, or a urethane if you want to go that route.

In the same home I used salvaged cabinet doors from the 1930's (replaced by
my dad in the 60's with flush plywood and stuffed into the furnace room for
40 years...). These were made of old growth white pine, very well made,
solid raised panel. I made cabinets to fit the doors. 

I have a few photos lurking around here somewhere I can post if interested.

 

Chris Koehn

TimberGuides

 

 

 

 

 

 






 

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