[Greenbuilding] [BULK] Re: Fwd: Question on tight house, carbon monoxide

john bone johnbone at gateshead.plus.com
Mon Feb 20 03:08:08 CST 2012


Hi,

Over in the UK kitchens are required to have “trickle” vents of 8000 mm2
“slot opening” so as to provide both air to breathe and combustion air for
gas ranges, etc. National UK building Code also requires “equivalent” air in
to flue size out for any other type of heating / burning appliance. And a CO
detector ($38) in all rooms of a home with a new solid fuel appliance. The
following is an Amazon advert.

 

 
<http://www.amazon.co.uk/First-Alert-Operated-Monoxide-Detector/dp/B002ACONU
Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329728766&sr=8-1>  


 
<http://www.amazon.co.uk/First-Alert-Operated-Monoxide-Detector/dp/B002ACONU
Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329728766&sr=8-1> First Alert Battery Operated
Carbon Monoxide Detector by First Alert (DIY & Tools - 1 Jun 2009) 


Buy
<http://www.amazon.co.uk/First-Alert-Operated-Monoxide-Detector/dp/B002ACONU
Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329728766&sr=8-1>  new: £24.99 £19.99 ($38)

 

John Bone, BSc Hons, MBENg
UK Building Code Official

 

 

  _____  

From: greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org
[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] On Behalf Of Bob
klahn
Sent: 18 February 2012 06:47
To: greenbuilding at lists.bioenergylists.org
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] [BULK] Re: Fwd: Question on tight house, carbon
monoxide

 

On the couple of gas stoves I've had (that I can recall) the control and
adjustment seemed to vary a bit.  None seemed to have been designed with
adjustment - or ease thereof - in mind.  Good luck.

I believe the 100 ppm is an artifact of an old industrial  guideline.
Totally wrong for a residential exposure.  The real problem is, obviously,
that g as ranges are not commonly vented.

Rick Karg, in Maine, worked up more reasonable (testing) standards for
residential gas ranges, a couple of decades ago.  I believe his work is
still avialable on the web, if you search.  A good CO detector/monitor would
be a good thing to have on hand while you experiment, imho.  They have
gotten  relatively cheaper lately.  An alternative to might be one of the
"CO Experts" detectors (about $200, a great bargain -imho- and as sensitive
as my trusty Bachrach Monoxer).

Take care (in a general and literal sense, with this project).
Bob Klahn.



  _____  

From: greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org
[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] On Behalf Of Reuben
Deumling
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2012 3:57 PM
To: Greenbuilding 
Subject: [Greenbuilding] Fwd: Question on tight house, carbon monoxide

 

Fascinating. 

Is there any reason to be so (comparatively) lax about ovens? I mean isn't
it a pretty simple matter to get the fuel air mixture right, or is it more
complicated?

It reminds me of the long standing rules that permit side by side & bottom
freezer refrigerators to consume more electricity per cubic foot... There's
no engineering reason to set this up that way, but there may be plenty of
other reasons to :-)

 

On Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 1:53 PM, George J. Nesbitt
<george at houseisasystem.com> wrote:

It' burner design from what I understand. Historically CO testing protocols
have allowed 100ppm for stovetop burners & 300ppm for ovens before you are
"required" to take corrective action. Although lately 100ppm seems to be
used for everything.

 

 
 
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