[Greenbuilding] Lstiburek... wow.

[Sam Ewbank]

Reuben
You only need to create an air gap behind the siding so you could get by
with a 1/16th of an inch but it is usually easier to install a strip a 1/4"
to 3/8" of an inch (1 cm) thick if you are going over your wood exterior
sheathing or a 3/4" (2 cm) strip if you are furring over foam sheathing.

Shouldn't need any more furring strips in the field then you have studs or
backing to nail to.  Just make sure to allow for the necessary backing
around windows, doors, inside and outside corners.

I think it was mentioned before on this list that it isn't necessary to
vent the top of the rainscreen but that is something I haven't tried and
maybe another list member has info on this.

You can also use a house wrap designed to allow moisture to wick away.

Green Building Advisor rainscreen article:
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/all-about-rainscreens

An interesting excerpt from the above article for you Oregonians:

What’s going on in Oregon?

Since April 1, 2010, the residential building code in Oregon has required a
minimum 1/8-inch-deep gap between siding and the WRB for all new homes.

According to an article in
*JLC*<http://www.jlconline.com/Images/JLC%20Report_tcm96-1071384.pdf>,
Oregon authorities have ruled that the use of any one of six brands of
bumpy or wrinkled housewrap fulfills the requirements of this code
provision. The six approved housewraps are Tyvek DrainWrap, Greenguard
RainDrop, Valeron Vortec, HomeGuard HP Plus, Benjamin Obdyke Home Slicker,
and HydroTex.


Good Luck

Sam


On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 8:19 PM, Reuben Deumling <9watts at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks to you both for your replies. Very helpful.
>
> Sam, in answer to your question about a rain screen. I have so far not
> done this but am planning to take the plunge. I was going to use vertical
> furring strips. How thin can I get away with? Is there any value in
> installing more furring strips than I intend to nail through?
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 6:06 AM, Sam Ewbank <g.l.ewbank at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey Reuben,  use a yogurt container or similar with quick dry primer,
>> slice the lid for the paint brush handle to stick through to paint the ends
>> in the field.
>> Having a staging area and pre-cutting and priming as many pieces as
>> possible will help speed the installation but I wouldn't skimp on sealing.
>> It can get a little messy but important.  Have also smeared the end with
>> wood glue when paint wasn't available.
>>
>> Putting small piece of whatever weather barrier you are using behind
>> field joints also helps in the case of the joint opening (which it will)
>> with seasonal movement.  You can cut up the pieces and stuff 'em in your
>> pouch to have handy when installing.
>>
>> Are you using a rain screen?
>>
>> Not exactly a siding installation but you can see some pictures by Gary
>> Katz, where he is wrapping a column in wood and priming the ends that
>> aren't exposed, also some good flashing tips:
>> http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/column_wrap.html
>>
>>  Sam
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 12:46 AM, Reuben Deumling <9watts at gmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> I just stumbled upon a copy of Lstiburek's *Builder's Guide to Mixed
>>> Climates*. I was already a fan of the here recommended *Water
>>> Management Guide*, but this is pure gold.
>>>
>>> I have lots of questions, but the most pressing one is how in practice
>>> you folks have gone about painting the *ends* of wooden siding boards
>>> as you cut them in the field? I'm having trouble imagining how that would
>>> work in practice. I have built large racks on which to dry painted boards,
>>> but the logistics of cutting, painting the ends, setting them aside to dry,
>>> and then returning to install those now dry pieces seem daunting. Does
>>> anyone actually do this? Are there tricks?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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