[Greenbuilding] Lstiburek... wow.

[John Salmen]

Under our code (can) there is a ‘clear open’ requirement – with a minimum
80% open area in cross section. 

 

I think a somewhat arbitrary number based on confusion about equalizing
pressure in the rainscreens but practically since siding should have support
back to framing it conveniently works out to a 1x4 every 16” (if you are
framing at 16) and this provides somewhat sufficient stiffness (depending on
the siding) to resist wind pressure. A 1x4 every 24” works but practically
would probably result in a wavy looking vertically striped wall over time
(the hardy wall) – but a 1x3 every 12” meets our code goal. 

 

I think smaller compartments would work fine  - I wanted to do a reverse
board and batten with a 60% open area but a thicker batten and was not
allowed by one inspector. I thought it was a practical attractive solution
to a rainscreen.

 

For strips I typically specify 3/8” ply strips or ½” foam IF the siding is
nailed right back to the framing at 16 or 24” otherwise you need something
thicker for nail holding.  Studies have shown you can go much thinner but it
goes back to pressure. If you want to get really confused there is a good
old article by Rousseau
http://archive.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/obj/irc/doc/ctu-n17_eng.pdf

 

 

From: Greenbuilding [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org]
On Behalf Of Reuben Deumling
Sent: August-04-13 5:20 PM
To: Green Building
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Lstiburek... wow.

 

Thanks to you both for your replies. Very helpful. 

Sam, in answer to your question about a rain screen. I have so far not done
this but am planning to take the plunge. I was going to use vertical furring
strips. How thin can I get away with? Is there any value in installing more
furring strips than I intend to nail through?  

 

On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 6:06 AM, Sam Ewbank <g.l.ewbank at gmail.com> wrote:

Hey Reuben,  use a yogurt container or similar with quick dry primer, slice
the lid for the paint brush handle to stick through to paint the ends in the
field.  

Having a staging area and pre-cutting and priming as many pieces as possible
will help speed the installation but I wouldn't skimp on sealing.  

It can get a little messy but important.  Have also smeared the end with
wood glue when paint wasn't available.

 

Putting small piece of whatever weather barrier you are using behind field
joints also helps in the case of the joint opening (which it will) with
seasonal movement.  You can cut up the pieces and stuff 'em in your pouch to
have handy when installing.

 

Are you using a rain screen?

 

Not exactly a siding installation but you can see some pictures by Gary
Katz, where he is wrapping a column in wood and priming the ends that aren't
exposed, also some good flashing tips:

http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/column_wrap.html

 

 Sam

 

On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 12:46 AM, Reuben Deumling <9watts at gmail.com> wrote:

I just stumbled upon a copy of Lstiburek's Builder's Guide to Mixed
Climates. I was already a fan of the here recommended Water Management
Guide, but this is pure gold.

I have lots of questions, but the most pressing one is how in practice you
folks have gone about painting the ends of wooden siding boards as you cut
them in the field? I'm having trouble imagining how that would work in
practice. I have built large racks on which to dry painted boards, but the
logistics of cutting, painting the ends, setting them aside to dry, and then
returning to install those now dry pieces seem daunting. Does anyone
actually do this? Are there tricks? 



Thanks very much.

 

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