[Greenbuilding] Building w/in a building

ErgoDesk ergodesk at gmail.com
Sat Jul 5 23:21:52 CDT 2014


EPS Composites can survive 360 day soakings on both sides and still have
fewer problems that wood being soaked on 1 side for 1 week.
http://www.houzz.com/pro/ergodesk/ergodesk-energy-efficient-building-envelopes


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On Sat, Jul 5, 2014 at 8:44 PM, Joe Killian <kaa-ajk at sonic.net> wrote:

>  Kurt,
>   If you trust your metal siding to keep water out, I'd suggest attaching
> the 2x6 wall to the girts and having no vapor barrier.
>   If you only trust it to keep most water out, I'd suggest the drainage
> plane between the 2X6 wall & girts, but still no vapor barrier.
>   You want the wall to be able to dry from any condensation, and it won't
> likely dry well through the metal siding.
>   See
>
> http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers
>
> Joe
>
> On 7/5/2014 3:36 PM, Kurt Jensen wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I am working on insulating a pole barn. Currently, the building has 1.5
> inch EPS glued to the ribbed metal siding, between the girts and purlins.
> The project is in the Pacific Northwest and the owner wants the building
> very well insulated. The floor is concrete slab. I'm thinking of framing
> 2x6 walls inside the existing building and insulating the wood walls with
> cellulose. My concerns have to do with trapping moisture. Since we have a
> fairly mild climate, but a lot of moisture issues, vapor barriers are often
> not used. I'm thinking of typical framing of OSB and moisture barrier to
> outside of the 2x6 walls and sheetrock on inside. My question is, should I
> leaving an inch or so space between 2x6 wall and the insulated barn wall or
> attach inside wall directly to girts? Anybody done anything like this or
> seen it done? Thanks
>
>  --
> Kurt Jensen
> Willamette Valley, Oregon.
>
>
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