[Stoves] Destroying combustion chambers after TLUD pyrolysis ends Re: Need experts advise on combustion chamber

Tue Feb 12 03:26:35 CST 2013

If you want to emerge into the mystery of the TLUD principals it will be 
better to make it simple than complicated. First of all start with the fuel. 
What kind of fuel do you want to utilize?
What you need:
1.    The fuel (Woodchips, pellets, shells, straw, whatever…)
2.    A 3 liter tin with lid
3.    An awl and a metal cutter.
________
1.    Cut a 4” hole in the lid.
2.    Punch some holes in the bottom of the tin
3.    Punch some holes 1” up from the bottom on the side of the tin
4.    Punch some holes ½” down from the top of the tin.
5.    Fill up with fuel.
6.    Put on the lid with the 4” hole,
7.    Put the unit on something up from the ground to let the primary air 
come in.
8.     Ignite on top.
9.    See what happen
If it don’t  work properly and is giving smoke, something is wrong and you 
have to and start to find out why. There are more possibilities:
1.    Wrong type of fuel.
2.    Fuel incorrect organized.
3.    Wrong size of holes.
4.    Too many or too few holes.
5.    Holes incorrect placed
Change only one possibility at a time. Then you will obtain the knowledge 
how the TLUDs works and you can start find out if fans are needed. The fact 
this unit is hot both sides and bottom and will not last very long. You will 
find out how to cower and how to obtain preheated 2nd air and how to arrange 
the pot.
The aim is no smoke no soot and minimum one hour flame. If you need more 
information you can mail me and surely Paul S.A
Best regards Paal W  paaw at online.no

-----Opprinnelig melding----- 
From: Ray Menke
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 2:07 AM
To: Discussion of biomass cooking stoves
Subject: Re: [Stoves] Destroying combustion chambers after TLUD pyrolysis 
ends Re: Need experts advise on combustion chamber

Hi Lanny,
I guess I should clarify that.  I built a copy of Paul's Champion TLUD
which uses a large six inch diameter metal coffee can for the burner.
It has the primary air tube coming in through the side, and below the
grate.  Above the grate I needed more height, and found a six inch
stove pipe with the factory installed crimps will fit into the top of
the coffee can.  I cut it with a chop saw, and usually make several at
a time.  The time consuming part of this is fitting the primary air
tube into the coffee can, so to save the coffee can from burning out,
I cut a 10 cm or 4 inch length of the six inch diameter stovepipe
(with no crimps), and fit it inside the lower portion of the coffee
can, and just above the grate.  (I open this little piece up, and trim
it so it fits inside the can with no overlap.)  This part oxidizes
because I sometimes run a small computer fan to increase the cooking
time and it does turn the thing into a little forge.  However, I can
drop a few small cubes of wood into that glowing bed of charcoal and
get some more flame (without smoke) to finish the cooking task.  I
might also mention that above the restriction, I use do use a 4"
diameter juice can that is wrapped with ceramic wool insulation and
covered with shiny aluminum foil.  Looks Space Age!  The outer lower
container is a party balloon gas tank.  I painted it with orange 500
degree F engine paint, but it has all burnt off.  (This did not happen
until I got carried away with the computer fan and 2 hour cooking
sessions.  (Normal TLUD operation without consuming the char is about
20 minutes, depending on the fuel.)

On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 5:28 PM, Lanny Henson <lannych at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Using inexpensive consumable components is certainly a strategy to 
> consider
> when designing a burner/stove. You are using a 10 cm/ 4" metal liner. That
> is close to the sixe of a juice can.
> Lanny

>> I use a 10 cm (4") wide replaceable band of old stovepipe material
>> inserted into the lower section of the stove.  When it burns away, I
>> just replace it with another one.  (I have no other use for old
>> stovepipe.)  It also would help to reduce the amount of air coming
>> from the primary fan to lessen the forge effect.  However, as Paul
>> stated, Ceramic or cast iron would be a better solution.

-- 
Ray  Menke

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